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Veiled Chameleon
== Taxonomy == '''Order:''' Squamata <br /> '''Family:''' Chamaeleonidae <br /> '''Genus:''' Chamaeleo <br /> '''Species:''' Calyptratus == Introduction == Veiled chameleons are native to Yemen and southern Saudi Arabia, and reside in an amazing variety of different habitats and are one of about 80 species considered "Old World" lizards. These are true chameleons. As adults they have a large helmet that begins as a nub when they hatch. Male helmets are larger than females, but both sexes have them. As babies they are mostly a very bright green, but mature into other colored bands of brilliant blues, greens, golds, reds and black. The female colors are much more muted and lean more towards the "earthy" tones. Although chameleons at rest tend to assume colors similar to their surroundings, color change is most often used to signify emotional state much like a mood ring. They cannot choose their colors of camouflage. They have a set colors unique to the species and within that species - unique to the particular region in which they live. [[Image:I_am_angry.jpg|thumb|left|Serenity - Owned by Author]] Their eyes move independently and can swivel nearly 180 degrees in opposite directions. When prey is spotted it will focus both eyes and then the tongue goes into action. The tongue can be up to 1 1/2 times the length of it's body. Veiled chameleons are extremely territorial. Male and female chams only tolerate each other for mating. Like most lizards, chameleons have a third eye called the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parietal_eye parietal eye]. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a very tiny milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety. == Difficulty == Difficult. These are not a beginner lizard. They're care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They are nervous as babies and some never get past that as adults. Some can become quite aggressive. Veiled chameleons are often just a display animal, but with regular [http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Veiled_Chameleon#Handling handling] can get used to being a hands on pet. == Basic Info == === Size === Male body length can reach between 17 and 24 inches (43 to 61 cm) from head to the tip of the tail and they are usually thin in appearance. Females reach between 10 and 14 inches (25 to 35.5 cm) in length. The female's casque (helmet) is smaller than the males, and they are more heavy-bodied. They can reach sexual maturity in 4-5 months at only 8-12 inches long. At about 1 year they should be full grown. Even though the females are ready to breed so young this does not mean it is safe for her to do so. She is still growing and becoming gravid could harm her being so young. === Lifespan === 5 yrs for females, 8 yrs. for males. === Handling === Handling these lizards is something normally not done. Chameleons of all species stress easily and the stress from handling an especially sensitive chameleon can cause its death. These are mostly a display animal. Occasionally there will be the cham who doesn't mind being handled. This is the exception - not the rule. The only way to find out if the cham you have chosen is susceptible to hands-on stress is to go "hands on". The signs of stress tolerance are evident. When you bring out the cham to handle they often turn very dark in color. Even babies who are a neon green will become a very dark green in color. As the cham matures and their adult colors they're so known for come in - these colors will be muted under the darkening of the skin. Once the animal is out for several minutes the colors will either return to a more normal state if it tolerates the handling, or they remain a very dark color. If the dark color remains after 5-10 minutes of handling then you may have an animal that will not tolerate being handled is is best left as a beautiful display animal. == Housing == For an adult veiled chameleon the enclosure will need to be approx. 4-6'T x 3'D x 3'W. The veiled chameleon needs a full-screened enclosure for proper ventilation. Aquariums do not allow for proper airflow which can cause respiratory infections and the glass creates a reflection which the cham will see himself in as a threat and potential enemy. The screen makes it tricky to get heat and humidity levels where they need to be, but it is what they require. Decorate with a waterfall, driftwood, fake vines and plants and add some real plants, too. Do research on what is safe, but here are a few to get you started: * Pothos * Spider plant * Wandering jew A link to more safe plants: http://www.geocities.com/chameleoncreatures/nontoxicplants.html === Substrate === Moss, bark, sand and the likes may look nice...but it's horribly bad. This stuff is deadly and has killed many reptiles. It causes impaction which often requires surgery to remove if found in time. It sure looks nice, but with a chameleons sticky tongue it's very easy for it to get caught. The food also tends to borrow in it. Instead of trying to explain this - here is a link that offers a "burrito" kind of substrate option since this also helps with humidity. * http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/weblog/archives/000152.html * http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/weblog/archives/000154.html === Temperature === Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots: * Basking: 90-95 * Ambient: 80-85 * Cool end/night time: 75 for babies under a year, 70 for adults. Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in. === Humidity === Using a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer will help you keep on top of this. This aids in shedding and some hydration. Between 30% - 50% is ideal with periods of complete dryness to keep the chance of molds and fungi growing. Daily misting of the plants will also help. There's also an automatic drip system that some use if you have techy abilities. Using a dripper on top of the cage helps, but it can fill the bottom of the cage quickly making a drowning pit for crix and other food and for young chams if they should fall. Having something for the water to collect in will help with that. A container of water with a bubble stone used in fish tanks will also help with humidity. === Lighting === Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. Veiled chameleons are actually low-level UVB requiring reptiles. They don't need the same bulbs used for high level needing reptiles such as iguanas and bearded dragons. If the UVB source emits too much then breeding females have deformed eggs often destroying the embryos and degenerates cell tissue on every level in grown chams. The brands to go with: * Reptisun 2.0 (inside of screened cage or 5.0 outside of cage) * Iguana Light 5.0 (outside of cage) * Exoterra 2.0 * Mega Ray EB 60W Low Kit (http://www.reptileuv.com) Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your cham...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. If you choose to use these, read the instructions carefully! == Feeding == === Diet === Crickets are a primary food and should be the bulk of their diet. Gutloading is extremely important since crickets are just an empty shell. They really do live by the adage "You are what you eat". What they eat has a direct impact on what your veiled chameleon eats. If the crix eat good, the cham eats good. Offer gutload and fresh greens and some veggies for a healthy cricket meal. Other live food to offer your chameleon is mealworm, superworms, waxworms, silkworms and definitely butterworms. Butterworms are high in calcium for these high calcium needing reptiles. As adults you can offer small amounts of salad such as fresh greens, veggies and fruit - ONLY as a small additional food supplement. Serve insects that are only as long as the width of the chameleons mouth to prevent a choking hazard. You can attach a feeding cup (bird seed cups) for crawly insects to keep them in one place. === Supplements === Calcium (no D3) should be added to the diet in the form of dust on the crickets. Put the crix in a small container and add the calcium. Gently shake to cover and serve. === Hydration === Veiled chameleons dehydrate eaily. Providing water for these "dew drinkers" is the hardest thing to provide. Some of the tips in the humidity portion of this care guide will also offer ways for the cham to drink. My chams drink from the water drops caught in the screen mesh. Mist twice daily with warm water. == Advanced == === Sexing === The sex of young veiled chameleons is relatively easy. The males have a small spur on the back of their hind feet. As they grow more mature the colors of the males will be brighter, the body shape is thinner where the female is somewhat broader, and, as stated above, the male helmet is larger than the female. == Conclusion == The final word here is - if you want a lizard to care for that does not require handling, then the chameleon is for you. As long as you understand that they are a high-maintenance animal and require specific care a little more challenging than most, then the chameleon is for you. If you enjoy the magnificent colors of these "tree gems" that often stay in the farther reaches of the shadows, then the chameleon is for you. Veiled chameleons are the easiest of the chams to care for, and the above statements are what you should expect. Many of them are not so secretive, but at least this allows you to understand that it is, at least, a possibility. == References == === Websites === '''General Care''' * http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/care-sheet.html * http://www.geocities.com/chameleoncreatures/veiled.html * http://www.sundialreptile.com/Care%20Sheet--veiled.htm '''UVB''' * http://www.reptileuvinfo.com * http://www.uvguide.co.uk * http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/ === Books === * "Chameleons - Nature's Hidden Jewels" 2nd Ed. By Petr Necas * "Chameleons - Their Care and Breeding" By Linda J. Davison == Author == This article was originally written by [http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=64 prism_wolf]. View other articles by [http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:prism_wolf prism_wolf]. Please note that others may have contributed to this article. [[Category:Care Guides]] [[Category:prism_wolf]]
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