Green Iguana
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Current revision (20:48, 26 April 2008) (view source) (→Lighting) |
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'''Species:''' Iguana | '''Species:''' Iguana | ||
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== Introduction == | == Introduction == | ||
First and foremost - Iguanas are wild animals. These have not been domesticated and it's up to us to try and live with and earn the trust of these amazing animals. Iguanas hit the main stream pet trade a few years ago. They market cheap with promises of easy care requirements. They are not cheap, nor are they easy. They have a tail they can use as an effective whip and teeth compared to a tiger shark. They can cause severe damage if they are not socialized or have an exceptionally bad breeding season. Females can be just as dangerous, but not as often. The females can lay eggs even without a male present. They can become egg-bound if not cared for right requiring an emergency spay. Often females die once complications set in. | First and foremost - Iguanas are wild animals. These have not been domesticated and it's up to us to try and live with and earn the trust of these amazing animals. Iguanas hit the main stream pet trade a few years ago. They market cheap with promises of easy care requirements. They are not cheap, nor are they easy. They have a tail they can use as an effective whip and teeth compared to a tiger shark. They can cause severe damage if they are not socialized or have an exceptionally bad breeding season. Females can be just as dangerous, but not as often. The females can lay eggs even without a male present. They can become egg-bound if not cared for right requiring an emergency spay. Often females die once complications set in. | ||
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| + | [[Image:Zair_the_Green_Iguana.jpg|thumb|left|Zair - Owned by Author]] | ||
HOWEVER - once the doom and gloom of iguana facts are done - they make amazing pets when you know how to care for one right. They can become very social to the point of sleeping in their owners' beds and following them around the house. It may take a year to get them there, but it's work well worth it. They can even become accustomed to other family pets. Females have no issues with egging if properly cared for from the beginning. Knowing iguana care and doing things right is the key. If this is the lizard you choose to bring into your home - research! There are wonderful websites out there on iguana care and I strongly suggest you use information from all of them. There are some bad ones, but you will learn the difference as you ask questions and learn the consistencies in information in the good care tips given. | HOWEVER - once the doom and gloom of iguana facts are done - they make amazing pets when you know how to care for one right. They can become very social to the point of sleeping in their owners' beds and following them around the house. It may take a year to get them there, but it's work well worth it. They can even become accustomed to other family pets. Females have no issues with egging if properly cared for from the beginning. Knowing iguana care and doing things right is the key. If this is the lizard you choose to bring into your home - research! There are wonderful websites out there on iguana care and I strongly suggest you use information from all of them. There are some bad ones, but you will learn the difference as you ask questions and learn the consistencies in information in the good care tips given. | ||
| - | Like most lizards, iguanas have a third eye called the parietal eye. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety. The bigger the iguana gets, the less they need to react, but as babies this is a tool used in life or death. For this reason it is always best to go into the cage from the front and not overhead. You will be seen as a predator because of the shadow caused by your hand. | + | Like most lizards, iguanas have a third eye called the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parietal_eye parietal eye]. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety. The bigger the iguana gets, the less they need to react, but as babies this is a tool used in life or death. For this reason it is always best to go into the cage from the front and not overhead. You will be seen as a predator because of the shadow caused by your hand. |
== Difficulty == | == Difficulty == | ||
=== Handling === | === Handling === | ||
| - | + | Iguanas MUST have constant interaction while in their younger years. As babies they can be flighty because, as with many baby lizards, they are at the bottom of the food chain. Extreme patience and a lot of time are the keys to gaining the trust of this wild animal. Without this interaction these animals can be unpredictable and dangerous able to inflict serious damage including loss of finger and permanent scarring. [http://exoticanimalrescue.fotopic.net/c1457511.html GRAPHIC pictures of injuries] | |
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| + | The socializing process can easily take up to a year for some while others seem to take to it within a few weeks. Place your hand in the cage where the ig can see it first. Going in from overhead or behind only triggers the flight instinct once the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parietal_eye parietal eye] catches the shadow. For all it knows, you are a giant bird coming down to eat it. These animals still rely on strong instinct and these reactions are hard-wired. So placing your hand where it can be seen may still get a reaction, but in time it will realize your not going to eat it. Slowly inch towards the ig. You will learn at what point you can get to before the ig bolts. Once you learn this - you can stop your advance - allow it to settle again - and inch forward some more. You will eventually be able to touch the chest. Picking up gently is the next step. | ||
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| + | Bribery doesn't hurt either. You don't always have to hold it once you get to that point. Talk to it - and offer a treat of cut blueberries. It will learn to associate your hand with something good. | ||
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| + | You can use these same techniques with larger igs. Larger igs can inflict a lot of damage with their tail, claws and teeth. You need to use more caution here, but the basics are the same. | ||
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| + | Males in breeding season is, however, a different story. Hormones are a powerful thing in wild animals. Some males go through relatively calm seasons. There are others who may be the most gently ig in the world during the off-season - then when breeding season hits they are the Hyde of the ig-world. These are the most unpredictable and sometimes just need to be left alone. A fully charged male iguana weighing 20+ lbs can be pretty intimidating. In this case a towel could become your best friend during cleaning and feeding sessions. If the iguana begins to charge - tossing the towel over the head will stop him in his tracks. | ||
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| + | Once you have gained an iguanas trust - you must work at keeping it that way. If left without interaction for too long - iguanas do revert back to their wild ways. It is an ongoing process...but one well worth it once you have that ig who enjoys a cuddle. Not all igs are easily manageable. Some never become something you can handle, but never stop trying. | ||
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| + | --[[User:Prism wolf|Prism wolf]] 22:30, 28 February 2008 (EST) | ||
== Housing == | == Housing == | ||
=== Lighting === | === Lighting === | ||
| + | [[Image:Basking_Area_Lights.jpg|thumb|left|Zair - Owned by Author]]Basking lights are very easy and inexpensive if you stay away from the pet stores for this one. They need a photoperiod with daylight and nighttime as they would in their natural home. Instead of using the expensive "reptile basking lights", go to your local retail store and get a regular incandescent light bulb, such as what you would use for a lamp. | ||
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| + | Igs should NOT have night heat unless their nighttime temps go below the lowest temp requirements. Their bodies need to regulate to lower temps in order for them to "rest and recharge" for the next day. | ||
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Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. You need no less than two 4' fluorescent UVB tubes. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with: | Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. You need no less than two 4' fluorescent UVB tubes. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with: | ||
| + | Tubes: | ||
* Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 | * Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 | ||
* Iguana Light 5.0 | * Iguana Light 5.0 | ||
* Exoterra 8.0 | * Exoterra 8.0 | ||
* Arcadia 5.0 (UK) | * Arcadia 5.0 (UK) | ||
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| - | Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com | + | Merc Vapors: |
| + | * Mega Ray EB (external ballast) [http://www.reptileuv.com ReptileUV] | ||
| + | * Mega Ray SB (self-ballast) | ||
| + | * T-Rex 100W or 160W Active UV Flood & Spot Lamps (available in many stores) | ||
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| + | Many of these can be purchased at [http://www.reptiledirect.com Reptile Direct] reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your ig...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. These are no good for large lizards and reptiles. They do not cover nearly enough of the animal to benefit them. A UVB meter is an excellent way to keep on top of your bulbs. | ||
Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB at the bottom. | Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB at the bottom. | ||
The core diet is collard greens, turnip greens and mustard greens. If you can find arugula and dandelion greens add them, too. The other items in the guide you should rotated for variety. An excellent visual guide can be found here: http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm | The core diet is collard greens, turnip greens and mustard greens. If you can find arugula and dandelion greens add them, too. The other items in the guide you should rotated for variety. An excellent visual guide can be found here: http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm | ||
| - | Greens should be cut to no bigger than the size of it's head. Green beans, bell pepper and other thick veggies should be chopped and squashes and parsnips shredded with peel included. Iguanas are obligate herbivores which means - no bugs, chicken, or any other animal product. This leads to an early death by renal failure. Protein is gathered from the plant protein they eat - not animal protein. They're kidneys can't handle the load. A high plant protein food is alfalfa and an excellent addition. Alfalfa powder can be found in many health food stores or you can grind up high quality rabbit pellets sprinkled throughout the salad. | + | Greens should be cut to no bigger than the size of it's head. Green beans, bell pepper and other thick veggies should be chopped and squashes and parsnips shredded with peel included. Iguanas are obligate herbivores which means - no bugs, chicken, or any other animal product. This leads to an early death by [http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/kidneyfailure.html renal failure]. Protein is gathered from the plant protein they eat - not animal protein. They're kidneys can't handle the load. A high plant protein food is alfalfa and an excellent addition. Alfalfa powder can be found in many health food stores or you can grind up high quality rabbit pellets sprinkled throughout the salad. |
=== Supplements === | === Supplements === | ||
== Conclusion == | == Conclusion == | ||
| - | + | Iguanas do make great pets if you're up to the challenge. My own male is an exceptional lizard. At the writing of this conclusion, my 10 yr. old Zair is taken out in public, loves car rides and looking out the window, and is a hit through the educational presentations we do from time to time. They are not for everyone. It takes dedication and a serious chunk out of the years of your life to devote to one of these animals. Many people even take their iguanas on vacation. [http://www.geocities.com/henrycohumanesoc/travelwithigs.html Traveling tips and guidelines] are a must. | |
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| + | Remember - these are a commitment and a lifestyle - not just some cool lizard that can get huge. Be sure of your choice if you have not gotten one yet - and if you do have one and are only learning what kind of commitment they are you have one of two choices. 1) Bite the bullet and follow through with the choice you have made to purchase before researching. 2) Find it a good home with someone who will make that commitment if you cannot. | ||
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| + | --[[User:Prism wolf|Prism wolf]] 22:45, 28 February 2008 (EST) | ||
== References == | == References == | ||
* The Iguana Den's Care and Keeping of Giant Green Iguanas - Meri Martin, Gail Elsey and Diane Remphrey | * The Iguana Den's Care and Keeping of Giant Green Iguanas - Meri Martin, Gail Elsey and Diane Remphrey | ||
* What's Wrong With My Iguana - by John Rossi M.A. D.V.M. | * What's Wrong With My Iguana - by John Rossi M.A. D.V.M. | ||
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| + | '''Many of these books can be found on Amazon for very reasonable prices. Use the Amazon link on the main forum pages and help to contribute to the upkeep of all that is good here.''' | ||
== Author == | == Author == | ||
