Green Iguana
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(New page: == Taxonomy == '''Order:''' Squamata <br /> '''Family:''' Iguanidae <br /> '''Genus/species:''' Iguana iguana == Introduction == First and foremost - Iguanas are wild animals. These have ...) |
Current revision (20:48, 26 April 2008) (view source) (→Lighting) |
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'''Order:''' Squamata <br /> | '''Order:''' Squamata <br /> | ||
'''Family:''' Iguanidae <br /> | '''Family:''' Iguanidae <br /> | ||
| - | '''Genus/ | + | '''Genus:''' Iguana <br /> |
| + | '''Species:''' Iguana | ||
== Introduction == | == Introduction == | ||
First and foremost - Iguanas are wild animals. These have not been domesticated and it's up to us to try and live with and earn the trust of these amazing animals. Iguanas hit the main stream pet trade a few years ago. They market cheap with promises of easy care requirements. They are not cheap, nor are they easy. They have a tail they can use as an effective whip and teeth compared to a tiger shark. They can cause severe damage if they are not socialized or have an exceptionally bad breeding season. Females can be just as dangerous, but not as often. The females can lay eggs even without a male present. They can become egg-bound if not cared for right requiring an emergency spay. Often females die once complications set in. | First and foremost - Iguanas are wild animals. These have not been domesticated and it's up to us to try and live with and earn the trust of these amazing animals. Iguanas hit the main stream pet trade a few years ago. They market cheap with promises of easy care requirements. They are not cheap, nor are they easy. They have a tail they can use as an effective whip and teeth compared to a tiger shark. They can cause severe damage if they are not socialized or have an exceptionally bad breeding season. Females can be just as dangerous, but not as often. The females can lay eggs even without a male present. They can become egg-bound if not cared for right requiring an emergency spay. Often females die once complications set in. | ||
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| + | [[Image:Zair_the_Green_Iguana.jpg|thumb|left|Zair - Owned by Author]] | ||
HOWEVER - once the doom and gloom of iguana facts are done - they make amazing pets when you know how to care for one right. They can become very social to the point of sleeping in their owners' beds and following them around the house. It may take a year to get them there, but it's work well worth it. They can even become accustomed to other family pets. Females have no issues with egging if properly cared for from the beginning. Knowing iguana care and doing things right is the key. If this is the lizard you choose to bring into your home - research! There are wonderful websites out there on iguana care and I strongly suggest you use information from all of them. There are some bad ones, but you will learn the difference as you ask questions and learn the consistencies in information in the good care tips given. | HOWEVER - once the doom and gloom of iguana facts are done - they make amazing pets when you know how to care for one right. They can become very social to the point of sleeping in their owners' beds and following them around the house. It may take a year to get them there, but it's work well worth it. They can even become accustomed to other family pets. Females have no issues with egging if properly cared for from the beginning. Knowing iguana care and doing things right is the key. If this is the lizard you choose to bring into your home - research! There are wonderful websites out there on iguana care and I strongly suggest you use information from all of them. There are some bad ones, but you will learn the difference as you ask questions and learn the consistencies in information in the good care tips given. | ||
| - | + | Like most lizards, iguanas have a third eye called the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parietal_eye parietal eye]. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety. The bigger the iguana gets, the less they need to react, but as babies this is a tool used in life or death. For this reason it is always best to go into the cage from the front and not overhead. You will be seen as a predator because of the shadow caused by your hand. | |
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| - | Like most lizards, iguanas have a third eye called the parietal eye. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety. The bigger the iguana gets, the less they need to react, but as babies this is a tool used in life or death. For this reason it is always best to go into the cage from the front and not overhead. You will be seen as a predator because of the shadow caused by your hand. | + | |
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| - | == Difficulty | + | == Difficulty == |
Difficult. These are not a beginner lizard. They're care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They can be flighty as babies and dangerous as adults. You have to know what to expect and be fully aware you might not be one of the lucky ones to get an iguana that will become social. | Difficult. These are not a beginner lizard. They're care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They can be flighty as babies and dangerous as adults. You have to know what to expect and be fully aware you might not be one of the lucky ones to get an iguana that will become social. | ||
| - | == Size == | + | == Basic Info == |
| + | === Size === | ||
They can grow to 6'+ and weight up to 25 lbs. | They can grow to 6'+ and weight up to 25 lbs. | ||
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Keeping track of your igs growth will help you keep a handle on his health using both svl AND stl...even if the ig doesn't have all of it's tail. An iguana that is beginning to have health issues will slow down in growth. They won't stop, but they will not shed and grow as they would if they were healthy. | Keeping track of your igs growth will help you keep a handle on his health using both svl AND stl...even if the ig doesn't have all of it's tail. An iguana that is beginning to have health issues will slow down in growth. They won't stop, but they will not shed and grow as they would if they were healthy. | ||
For easy measuring, use a string. Starting from the nose...go to the vent and tie a knot, then tie another one at the tip of the tail. Then you can use the measuring tape to get the length from the knotted string. | For easy measuring, use a string. Starting from the nose...go to the vent and tie a knot, then tie another one at the tip of the tail. Then you can use the measuring tape to get the length from the knotted string. | ||
| - | == Temperature == | + | === Lifespan === |
| + | Iguanas can live to 20+ years with the right care. | ||
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| + | === Handling === | ||
| + | Iguanas MUST have constant interaction while in their younger years. As babies they can be flighty because, as with many baby lizards, they are at the bottom of the food chain. Extreme patience and a lot of time are the keys to gaining the trust of this wild animal. Without this interaction these animals can be unpredictable and dangerous able to inflict serious damage including loss of finger and permanent scarring. [http://exoticanimalrescue.fotopic.net/c1457511.html GRAPHIC pictures of injuries] | ||
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| + | The socializing process can easily take up to a year for some while others seem to take to it within a few weeks. Place your hand in the cage where the ig can see it first. Going in from overhead or behind only triggers the flight instinct once the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parietal_eye parietal eye] catches the shadow. For all it knows, you are a giant bird coming down to eat it. These animals still rely on strong instinct and these reactions are hard-wired. So placing your hand where it can be seen may still get a reaction, but in time it will realize your not going to eat it. Slowly inch towards the ig. You will learn at what point you can get to before the ig bolts. Once you learn this - you can stop your advance - allow it to settle again - and inch forward some more. You will eventually be able to touch the chest. Picking up gently is the next step. | ||
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| + | Bribery doesn't hurt either. You don't always have to hold it once you get to that point. Talk to it - and offer a treat of cut blueberries. It will learn to associate your hand with something good. | ||
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| + | You can use these same techniques with larger igs. Larger igs can inflict a lot of damage with their tail, claws and teeth. You need to use more caution here, but the basics are the same. | ||
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| + | Males in breeding season is, however, a different story. Hormones are a powerful thing in wild animals. Some males go through relatively calm seasons. There are others who may be the most gently ig in the world during the off-season - then when breeding season hits they are the Hyde of the ig-world. These are the most unpredictable and sometimes just need to be left alone. A fully charged male iguana weighing 20+ lbs can be pretty intimidating. In this case a towel could become your best friend during cleaning and feeding sessions. If the iguana begins to charge - tossing the towel over the head will stop him in his tracks. | ||
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| + | Once you have gained an iguanas trust - you must work at keeping it that way. If left without interaction for too long - iguanas do revert back to their wild ways. It is an ongoing process...but one well worth it once you have that ig who enjoys a cuddle. Not all igs are easily manageable. Some never become something you can handle, but never stop trying. | ||
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| + | --[[User:Prism wolf|Prism wolf]] 22:30, 28 February 2008 (EST) | ||
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| + | == Housing == | ||
| + | A 50 gal. is the minimum required size for a baby iguana under a year old and still be able to reach the proper temperature gradients. Once your ig turns about a year old and is close to 2' long or more...you'll need to think about building a cage. For a full-grown ig you'll need one 6'T x 6'W x 3'D. | ||
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| + | You can use a large cardboard box for a hide, fake plants to make a kind of curtain, a towel hung over one end of the aquarium, etc. | ||
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| + | Note on housing multiple iguanas. Iguanas are extremely territorial and most often barely tolerate each other. Males can, and do, cause serious injury to each other - and even kill each other. Females can also be territorial, but not usually with the same severity of violence. Males to females sometimes work - but most often they do not. Iguana mating can be brutal. I had a female I needed to re-home after 1 1/2 yrs. of the male and female living together when the male shredded her trying to mate on particularly bad breeding season. I have also had two females living together a couple of years later. The only way it worked was the 6'T x 8'L x 4'D enclosure with two separate basking areas complete with UVB and heat source. | ||
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| + | === Substrate === | ||
| + | Moss, bark, sand and the likes may look nice...but it's horribly bad. This stuff is deadly and has killed many reptiles...not just iguanas. It causes impaction which often requires surgery to remove if found in time. It sure looks nice, but with an iguana's sticky tongue and the way they flick-lick everything...it's very easy for it to get ingested. It also harbors bacterias and fungi. Just go to cage carpet or replace it all with newspaper, butcher paper, old towels, linoleum, etc. | ||
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| + | === Temperature === | ||
Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots: | Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots: | ||
Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in. | Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in. | ||
| - | == | + | === Humidity === |
| + | Using a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer will help you keep on top of this. This aids in shedding and some hydration. If you can reach 50% you are doing better than a lot can achieve. Between 60% - 80% is ideal with periods of complete dryness to keep the chance of molds and fungi growing...even on your ig. Daily misting and periodic baths will also help. | ||
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| + | You can also add a warm air, or cold air vaporizer to the cage for added humidity. Just cover the warm air since the steam comes out so hot. There's also an automatic drip system that some use. You can also look into a fully automated drip system if you have techy abilities. | ||
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| + | === Lighting === | ||
| + | [[Image:Basking_Area_Lights.jpg|thumb|left|Zair - Owned by Author]]Basking lights are very easy and inexpensive if you stay away from the pet stores for this one. They need a photoperiod with daylight and nighttime as they would in their natural home. Instead of using the expensive "reptile basking lights", go to your local retail store and get a regular incandescent light bulb, such as what you would use for a lamp. | ||
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| + | Igs should NOT have night heat unless their nighttime temps go below the lowest temp requirements. Their bodies need to regulate to lower temps in order for them to "rest and recharge" for the next day. | ||
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Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. You need no less than two 4' fluorescent UVB tubes. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with: | Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. You need no less than two 4' fluorescent UVB tubes. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with: | ||
| + | Tubes: | ||
* Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 | * Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 | ||
* Iguana Light 5.0 | * Iguana Light 5.0 | ||
* Exoterra 8.0 | * Exoterra 8.0 | ||
* Arcadia 5.0 (UK) | * Arcadia 5.0 (UK) | ||
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| - | Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com | + | Merc Vapors: |
| + | * Mega Ray EB (external ballast) [http://www.reptileuv.com ReptileUV] | ||
| + | * Mega Ray SB (self-ballast) | ||
| + | * T-Rex 100W or 160W Active UV Flood & Spot Lamps (available in many stores) | ||
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| + | Many of these can be purchased at [http://www.reptiledirect.com Reptile Direct] reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your ig...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. These are no good for large lizards and reptiles. They do not cover nearly enough of the animal to benefit them. A UVB meter is an excellent way to keep on top of your bulbs. | ||
Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB at the bottom. | Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB at the bottom. | ||
| - | == | + | == Feeding == |
| - | + | === Diet === | |
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| - | == Diet == | + | |
The core diet is collard greens, turnip greens and mustard greens. If you can find arugula and dandelion greens add them, too. The other items in the guide you should rotated for variety. An excellent visual guide can be found here: http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm | The core diet is collard greens, turnip greens and mustard greens. If you can find arugula and dandelion greens add them, too. The other items in the guide you should rotated for variety. An excellent visual guide can be found here: http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm | ||
| - | Greens should be cut to no bigger than the size of it's head. Green beans, bell pepper and other thick veggies should be chopped and squashes and parsnips shredded with peel included. Iguanas are obligate herbivores which means - no bugs, chicken, or any other animal product. This leads to an early death by renal failure. Protein is gathered from the plant protein they eat - not animal protein. They're kidneys can't handle the load. A high plant protein food is alfalfa and an excellent addition. Alfalfa powder can be found in many health food stores or you can grind up high quality rabbit pellets sprinkled throughout the salad. | + | Greens should be cut to no bigger than the size of it's head. Green beans, bell pepper and other thick veggies should be chopped and squashes and parsnips shredded with peel included. Iguanas are obligate herbivores which means - no bugs, chicken, or any other animal product. This leads to an early death by [http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/kidneyfailure.html renal failure]. Protein is gathered from the plant protein they eat - not animal protein. They're kidneys can't handle the load. A high plant protein food is alfalfa and an excellent addition. Alfalfa powder can be found in many health food stores or you can grind up high quality rabbit pellets sprinkled throughout the salad. |
| - | == Supplements == | + | === Supplements === |
With a balanced and varied diet additional supplementation is often not necessary. However, if you cannot supply the ideal diet due to produce availability, then supplementation is a must. A multivitamin ground up and a calcium supplement (no D3 - herbivores don't need this) are easily found. I use an old coffee grinder and grind up everything separately and put them back in the bottle they came out of and mark it "LIZARD". I sprinkle a very small amount on a pie plate worth of salad. You should not be able to see what you sprinkle on. | With a balanced and varied diet additional supplementation is often not necessary. However, if you cannot supply the ideal diet due to produce availability, then supplementation is a must. A multivitamin ground up and a calcium supplement (no D3 - herbivores don't need this) are easily found. I use an old coffee grinder and grind up everything separately and put them back in the bottle they came out of and mark it "LIZARD". I sprinkle a very small amount on a pie plate worth of salad. You should not be able to see what you sprinkle on. | ||
| - | == | + | === Hydration === |
| - | + | Not to be confused with humidity. Humidity is external while hydration is internal. Although iguanas don't absorb water the way people do, as a matter of fact they absorb almost nothing, baths and misting only really take care of the shedding. Baths can help with hydration as the head slips below the level of the water and water seeps in through the mouth. A very small amount is also soaked up through the vent (poop chute). Expect the iguana to poop in the water...it's natural and can even be used as an excellent tool for potty training. To help with added hydration mist the salad well. You can also use your misting bottle and see if he/she will drink the squirts. The hydrating foods such as bell peppers will also help. | |
| - | + | == Advanced == | |
| + | === Sexing === | ||
| + | The sex of young iguanas is impossible unless you get one DNA tested or probed by an experienced vet. Probing is invasive and can cause deadly results if done incorrectly. The differences start becoming evident when they're about 18 months old...the age of sexual maturity. On males, the femoral pores, jowls and temporal lobes (brain bumps) all begin to develop. The pores tend to be larger on males and they may have a tendency to drag them across the carpet and furniture for territorial marking during breeding season as a protruding, waxy substance is produced at this time of the year. Territory/breeding season and male iguanas is no joke. They can become very dangerous during the fall through spring months. I personally know several people who have had many stitches...and in one case...a friend reported several years ago that a friend of his had to remove his thumb from his 5 year old iguanas mouth. It was sewn back on. Even the sweetest iguana can forget all learned behavior and go on instinct listening to the hormones of the season. Hemipenal bulges will also become evident as a male matures. They have two penises and it's the bulge from each one at the base of the tail you look for. | ||
| - | + | == Conclusion == | |
| + | Iguanas do make great pets if you're up to the challenge. My own male is an exceptional lizard. At the writing of this conclusion, my 10 yr. old Zair is taken out in public, loves car rides and looking out the window, and is a hit through the educational presentations we do from time to time. They are not for everyone. It takes dedication and a serious chunk out of the years of your life to devote to one of these animals. Many people even take their iguanas on vacation. [http://www.geocities.com/henrycohumanesoc/travelwithigs.html Traveling tips and guidelines] are a must. | ||
| - | + | Remember - these are a commitment and a lifestyle - not just some cool lizard that can get huge. Be sure of your choice if you have not gotten one yet - and if you do have one and are only learning what kind of commitment they are you have one of two choices. 1) Bite the bullet and follow through with the choice you have made to purchase before researching. 2) Find it a good home with someone who will make that commitment if you cannot. | |
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| - | + | --[[User:Prism wolf|Prism wolf]] 22:45, 28 February 2008 (EST) | |
| - | == | + | == References == |
| - | + | === Websites === | |
| - | + | '''General''' | |
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| - | == Websites == | + | |
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* http://www.iguanaden.org | * http://www.iguanaden.org | ||
* http://www.anapsid.org | * http://www.anapsid.org | ||
* http://www.greenigsociety.org | * http://www.greenigsociety.org | ||
| - | + | '''UVB''' | |
* http://www.reptileuvinfo.com | * http://www.reptileuvinfo.com | ||
* http://www.uvguide.co.uk | * http://www.uvguide.co.uk | ||
* The Iguana Den's Care and Keeping of Giant Green Iguanas - Meri Martin, Gail Elsey and Diane Remphrey | * The Iguana Den's Care and Keeping of Giant Green Iguanas - Meri Martin, Gail Elsey and Diane Remphrey | ||
* What's Wrong With My Iguana - by John Rossi M.A. D.V.M. | * What's Wrong With My Iguana - by John Rossi M.A. D.V.M. | ||
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| + | '''Many of these books can be found on Amazon for very reasonable prices. Use the Amazon link on the main forum pages and help to contribute to the upkeep of all that is good here.''' | ||
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| + | == Author == | ||
| + | This article was originally written by | ||
| + | [http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=64 prism_wolf]. | ||
| + | View other articles by | ||
| + | [http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:prism_wolf prism_wolf]. | ||
| + | Please note that others may have contributed to this article. | ||
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| + | [[Category:Care Guides]] | ||
| + | [[Category:prism_wolf]] | ||
