Colors can range from a light mint green to a very dark forest green with definitive, slanted, vertical stripes down the sides that range in colors of pale green, mint green, aqua/turquoise. As the males mature they gain an iridescent throat in the ranges of bright pinks, peach, light yellow and orange.  The tail, which is heavily banded, can be used as a whip for defense, but is most often used for balance while climbing and because of it’s laterally flattened shape makes it an excellent swimmer. The heads are triangular shaped while a male’s head becomes wider as it matures into adulthood. A dark strip starts at the corner of the eye and goes back toward the ear. They do have sharp teeth, but because of their already easy-going nature, they rarely bite their humans. These lizards also have a high nuchal crest. In males this crest is taller than in females and they gain a second, very obvious mid-sagittal crest. This is also a lizard that can run on it’s back feet. They are one of several bi-pedal lizards.

Colors can range from a light mint green to a very dark forest green with definitive, slanted, vertical stripes down the sides that range in colors of pale green, mint green, aqua/turquoise. As the males mature they gain an iridescent throat in the ranges of bright pinks, peach, light yellow and orange.  The tail, which is heavily banded, can be used as a whip for defense, but is most often used for balance while climbing and because of it’s laterally flattened shape makes it an excellent swimmer. The heads are triangular shaped while a male’s head becomes wider as it matures into adulthood. A dark strip starts at the corner of the eye and goes back toward the ear. They do have sharp teeth, but because of their already easy-going nature, they rarely bite their humans. These lizards also have a high nuchal crest. In males this crest is taller than in females and they gain a second, very obvious mid-sagittal crest. This is also a lizard that can run on it’s back feet. They are one of several bi-pedal lizards.

Like most lizards, water dragons have a third eye called the parietal eye. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety.

Like most lizards, water dragons have a third eye called the parietal eye. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety.

Moderate. These are not a beginner lizard. Their care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They can be flighty as babies but usually calm down and become easy to handle fairly quickly. You have to know what to expect in their care requirements and understand if the care is not provided for properly that it could take just a matter of months, or even a few years, to die a fairly painful death.

Moderate. These are not a beginner lizard. Their care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They can be flighty as babies but usually calm down and become easy to handle fairly quickly. You have to know what to expect in their care requirements and understand if the care is not provided for properly that it could take just a matter of months, or even a few years, to die a fairly painful death.

Hatchlings start out very small at 1” svl – 5” stl. Females can reach 2’ total length while males can easily reach 3’. This makes for a much more desirable size for many people to care for as opposed to the 6’ of an iguana. Almost ¾ of their total length is from their tail.

Hatchlings start out very small at 1” svl – 5” stl. Females can reach 2’ total length while males can easily reach 3’. This makes for a much more desirable size for many people to care for as opposed to the 6’ of an iguana. Almost ¾ of their total length is from their tail.

Keeping track of your water dragons growth will help you keep a handle on his health using both svl AND stl...even if the water dragon doesn't have all of it's tail. A water dragon that is beginning to have health issues will slow down in growth. They won't stop, but they will not shed and grow as they would if they were healthy.

Keeping track of your water dragons growth will help you keep a handle on his health using both svl AND stl...even if the water dragon doesn't have all of it's tail. A water dragon that is beginning to have health issues will slow down in growth. They won't stop, but they will not shed and grow as they would if they were healthy.

For easy measuring, use a string. Starting from the nose...go to the vent and tie a knot, then tie another one at the tip of the tail. Then you can use the measuring tape to get the length from the knotted string. The water dragon cannot regenerate its tail like some lizards, so when it’s gone, it’s gone. This is really where the separate measurements of svl and stl come in handy.

For easy measuring, use a string. Starting from the nose...go to the vent and tie a knot, then tie another one at the tip of the tail. Then you can use the measuring tape to get the length from the knotted string. The water dragon cannot regenerate its tail like some lizards, so when it’s gone, it’s gone. This is really where the separate measurements of svl and stl come in handy.

Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots:

Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots:

Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in. To achieve the right temps you need the right heat source. Using an incandescent light over the basking spot will do the trick. For night and seasonal cold temps, a CHE or other lightless heat source will do.

Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in. To achieve the right temps you need the right heat source. Using an incandescent light over the basking spot will do the trick. For night and seasonal cold temps, a CHE or other lightless heat source will do.

Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. You need no less than two 3' fluorescent UVB tubes or a merc vapor such as the Mega Ray. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with:

Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. You need no less than two 3' fluorescent UVB tubes or a merc vapor such as the Mega Ray. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with:

Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB below.

Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB below.

Baby and juvenile water dragons need to eat everyday. As they mature feedings can back down to every 2-3 days. I preferred everyday feedings so meals were cut down to smaller portions. Water dragons can become overweight if the food is too fatty and not enough exercise.  

Baby and juvenile water dragons need to eat everyday. As they mature feedings can back down to every 2-3 days. I preferred everyday feedings so meals were cut down to smaller portions. Water dragons can become overweight if the food is too fatty and not enough exercise.  

Water dragons do not always take to salad stuff, but give it your best shot. Insects to feed come in a lot of varieties found in many pet stores and online. Crickets should be the main insect gutloading well with a healthy mixture. Crix are empty shells of no nutrition. They are, quite literally, what they eat as far as nutritional values. Other foods are mealworms, small-medium superworms, butterworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, earthworms, and even small feeder fish can be offered such as guppies.

Water dragons do not always take to salad stuff, but give it your best shot. Insects to feed come in a lot of varieties found in many pet stores and online. Crickets should be the main insect gutloading well with a healthy mixture. Crix are empty shells of no nutrition. They are, quite literally, what they eat as far as nutritional values. Other foods are mealworms, small-medium superworms, butterworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, earthworms, and even small feeder fish can be offered such as guppies.

With a balanced and varied diet additional supplementation is often not necessary. However, if you cannot supply the ideal diet (to the feeder insects included) due to product availability, then supplementation is a must. A multivitamin ground up and a calcium supplement (no D3 or phosphorous) are easily found. I use an old coffee grinder and grind up everything separately and put them back in the bottle they came out of and mark it "LIZARD".  Dust crix once a week with the vitamin such as ground centrum or hertivite. Calcium should be dusted over crickets every 2-3 days.

With a balanced and varied diet additional supplementation is often not necessary. However, if you cannot supply the ideal diet (to the feeder insects included) due to product availability, then supplementation is a must. A multivitamin ground up and a calcium supplement (no D3 or phosphorous) are easily found. I use an old coffee grinder and grind up everything separately and put them back in the bottle they came out of and mark it "LIZARD".  Dust crix once a week with the vitamin such as ground centrum or hertivite. Calcium should be dusted over crickets every 2-3 days.

* http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com <---by far the best on the Internet

* http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com <---by far the best on the Internet

* http://www.anapsid.org/waterdragons.html

* http://www.anapsid.org/waterdragons.html

* http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/lizards/water-dragon.php

* http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/lizards/water-dragon.php

* http://www.reptileuvinfo.com

* http://www.reptileuvinfo.com

* http://www.uvguide.co.uk

* http://www.uvguide.co.uk

* http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/

* http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/

* Green Water Dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks (General Care and Maintenance of Series) by Philippe De Vosjoli

* Green Water Dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks (General Care and Maintenance of Series) by Philippe De Vosjoli

* Anoles, Basilisks and Water Dragons: A Complete Pet Care Manual (More Complete Pet Owner's Manuals) by Richard D. Bartlett, Patricia P. Bartlett

* Anoles, Basilisks and Water Dragons: A Complete Pet Care Manual (More Complete Pet Owner's Manuals) by Richard D. Bartlett, Patricia P. Bartlett

* Lizard Care from A to Z (Paperback) by Richard Bartlett and Patricia Bartlett

* Lizard Care from A to Z (Paperback) by Richard Bartlett and Patricia Bartlett

* Green Water Dragons: Plus Sailfin Lizards & Basilisks (Advanced Vivarium Systems) by Jerry G. Walls

* Green Water Dragons: Plus Sailfin Lizards & Basilisks (Advanced Vivarium Systems) by Jerry G. Walls

[[Category:Care Guides]]

[[Category:Care Guides]]