Burmese Python
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Current revision (11:16, 25 March 2008) (view source) (→Diet) |
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| + | == Taxomony == | ||
| + | '''Order:''' Squamata<br /> | ||
| + | '''Family:''' Boidae<br /> | ||
| + | '''Genus:''' Python<br /> | ||
| + | '''Species:''' moluris bivittatus | ||
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== Introduction == | == Introduction == | ||
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| - | == | + | [[Image:burm.jpg|thumb|left|Photo of Malachi by [http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=172 burmmamma]]] |
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| + | First off if you want a good experience with this type of python buy a CB baby from a good set of parents. | ||
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Color & pattern mutations of Burmese pythons include Albino, Patternless (green), Granite, Albino Granite, Albino Patternless, Hypomelanistic, and "fader" - where the animal loses pattern definition over the course of its life. | Color & pattern mutations of Burmese pythons include Albino, Patternless (green), Granite, Albino Granite, Albino Patternless, Hypomelanistic, and "fader" - where the animal loses pattern definition over the course of its life. | ||
| - | + | Also see the "labyrinth" Burmese Python morph- a pattern that is more broken-up and random than that of a normal Burmese. | |
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| + | Adding new boids and pythons to your collection is always exciting. You MUST be cautious of each new specimen, however. Practice strict quarantine procedures. Quarantine should last between 3-6 months. | ||
== Difficulty == | == Difficulty == | ||
| - | This snake is a intermediate snake but you should still have a few years of large boid experience before attempting these monsters (even the dwarfs will hurt you) | + | This snake is a intermediate snake but you should still have a few years of large boid experience before attempting these monsters (even the dwarfs will hurt you). Due to this large size they are not recommended for beginners. |
| - | == | + | == Basic Info == |
| - | + | === Size === | |
| - | + | Hatchling Burmese pythons are approximately 18-24 inches. Average size on the burm is 17-20ft for females on average and 10-15ft for males on average. The new dwarf burms max out at 6ft for females and 4-6ft for males. | |
| - | + | === Lifespan === | |
| + | Burms can with proper care live into their late 20's to early 30's. | ||
| - | + | === Handling === | |
| + | After your burm has had time to acclimate you will want to begin handling it. Juveniles and hatchlings can be quite nippy but can become calm with consistent and gentle handling. If you get bit DO NOT pull back, this will cause more damage. Try running warm water over the mouth. This will normally cause the snake to let go. It is strongly recommended when your burm reaches a larger size that you have someone present when handling to avoid and potential dangerous situations. | ||
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| + | == Housing == | ||
| + | Burms grow fast-they can reach lengths of 6-9 feet in the first year. Make sure the caging you choose is able to maintain proper humidity. Burms are also escape artist-make sure your caging has proper locks and it is escape proof. The size enclosure you will need for an adult burm will be at least 6ft long x 3ft wide x 2ft high. | ||
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| + | === Substrate === | ||
| + | Aspen is often used for younger burms-they like to burrow to feel safe. When they get large aspen is not practical. Newspaper is a great substrate and easy to use. Craft paper, paper towels, and cypress mulch are some other options. NEVER EVER use cedar or pine. Make sure to always keep your cages clean it is imperative to your burms health. | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Temperature === | ||
| + | For basic keeping the following temps are recommended- | ||
| + | Ambient/cool side-minimum of 82 maximum of 85-86. 84 degrees is preferred. | ||
| + | Hotside/hotspot-minimum of 88 maximum of 94. 90 degrees is a solid temp. | ||
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| + | Consistent temps are key. Good set-ups with proper maintained temps are of utmost importance. It is best if the temps do not vary from day to night. If this does occur and temps drop to 80 during the night then a warm-up during the day will help offset this. Quick or prolonged drops in temps can lead to health issues. | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Humidity === | ||
| + | A minimum of 40% with 60% being the most desirable. A level of 70% is ok as long as proper ventilation is provided. | ||
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| + | === Lighting === | ||
| + | No special lighting is required for a burm. They should have a photo period and a regular incandescent light bulb can be used for this if there is no other regulated light source (such as other herp lights on timers in relative close proximity or sun coming through the windows). If placed inside the cage all sources MUST be placed behind a strong light guard for the safety of the snake. | ||
== Feeding == | == Feeding == | ||
| - | + | === Diet === | |
| + | Burms should be started off with rat “fuzzies”. Never feed your burm live prey. Rule of thumb is to feed your snake prey items that are no bigger than the widest part of their body. They will start with rats and eventually move to larger items such as rabbits or pigs. They will eat prey items that are too big for their size but this can lead to regurgitation of the item. It is easy to overfeed a burm-they are always eager to eat. Feed enough to keep it healthy not obese. | ||
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| + | === Supplements === | ||
| + | Supplements are not needed for this snake. | ||
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| + | === Hydration === | ||
| + | I shouldn't have to say this but always make sure they have FRESH water and a bowl big enough to soak in if your humidity is low. | ||
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| + | == Advanced == | ||
| + | === Breeding === | ||
| + | Burmese pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding size occurs at lengths of 6' - 9' (males) and 9'+ (females). Breeding season in captivity typically ranges from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any breeding is attempted. If your animals are not heavy almost fat DO NOT BREED THEM!! you can kill the female. Drop nighttime temperatures into the mid 70's. Introduce the female into the male's cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding.Females typically shed 14-20+ days after ovulation; eggs are typically laid 30 days after post-ovulation shed. Clutch size for Burmese pythons ranges from 20 - 80+ eggs. | ||
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| + | == Conclusion == | ||
| + | Please contribute to this section. | ||
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| + | == References == | ||
| + | === Websites === | ||
| + | *[http://www.bobclark.com/aAN_98.asp Bob Clark - Reptiles Mag Article; 1998] | ||
| + | *[http://www.anapsid.org/burm.html Melissa Kaplan - Burmese Python] | ||
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| + | === Books === | ||
| + | *The Guide to Owning Burmese Pythons - by John Coborn | ||
| + | *The General Care and Maintenance of Burmese Pythons - by Philippe de Vosjoli | ||
| + | *Advanced Vivarium Systems / AVS Books Burmese Python - by Philippe de Vosjoli and Roger Klingenbrug DVM | ||
| - | == | + | == Author == |
| - | + | This article was originally written by | |
| + | [http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=7 black phoenix]. | ||
| + | View other articles by | ||
| + | [http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:black_phoenix black phoenix]. | ||
| + | Please note that others may have contributed to this article. | ||
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So did this seem similar to the retic's page? Well it is almost identical! In fact they are so closely related that they can interbreed! A cross between a burm and retic makes a "Bateater" Also closely related to these pythons are the african rock python, indian rock python and believe it or not the ball python! | So did this seem similar to the retic's page? Well it is almost identical! In fact they are so closely related that they can interbreed! A cross between a burm and retic makes a "Bateater" Also closely related to these pythons are the african rock python, indian rock python and believe it or not the ball python! | ||
[[Category:Care Guides]] | [[Category:Care Guides]] | ||
| + | [[Category:black phoenix]] | ||
