Burmese Python
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Color & pattern mutations of Burmese pythons include Albino, Patternless (green), Granite, Albino Granite, Albino Patternless, Hypomelanistic, and "fader" - where the animal loses pattern definition over the course of its life. | Color & pattern mutations of Burmese pythons include Albino, Patternless (green), Granite, Albino Granite, Albino Patternless, Hypomelanistic, and "fader" - where the animal loses pattern definition over the course of its life. | ||
| - | Also see the "labyrinth" Burmese Python morph- a pattern that is more broken-up and random than that of a normal Burmese | + | Also see the "labyrinth" Burmese Python morph- a pattern that is more broken-up and random than that of a normal Burmese. |
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| + | Adding new boids and pythons to your collection is always exciting. You MUST be cautious of each new specimen, however. Practice strict quarantine procedures. Quarantine should last between 3-6 months. | ||
== Difficulty == | == Difficulty == | ||
| - | This snake is a intermediate snake but you should still have a few years of large boid experience before attempting these monsters (even the dwarfs will hurt you) | + | This snake is a intermediate snake but you should still have a few years of large boid experience before attempting these monsters (even the dwarfs will hurt you). Due to this large size they are not recommended for beginners. |
== Basic Info == | == Basic Info == | ||
=== Size === | === Size === | ||
| - | Average size on the burm is 17-20ft for females on average and 10-15ft for males on average. The new dwarf burms max out at 6ft for females and 4-6ft for males. | + | Hatchling Burmese pythons are approximately 18-24 inches. Average size on the burm is 17-20ft for females on average and 10-15ft for males on average. The new dwarf burms max out at 6ft for females and 4-6ft for males. |
=== Lifespan === | === Lifespan === | ||
=== Handling === | === Handling === | ||
| - | + | After your burm has had time to acclimate you will want to begin handling it. Juveniles and hatchlings can be quite nippy but can become calm with consistent and gentle handling. If you get bit DO NOT pull back, this will cause more damage. Try running warm water over the mouth. This will normally cause the snake to let go. It is strongly recommended when your burm reaches a larger size that you have someone present when handling to avoid and potential dangerous situations. | |
== Housing == | == Housing == | ||
| - | The size enclosure you will need for an adult burm will be at least 6ft long x 3ft wide x 2ft high. | + | Burms grow fast-they can reach lengths of 6-9 feet in the first year. Make sure the caging you choose is able to maintain proper humidity. Burms are also escape artist-make sure your caging has proper locks and it is escape proof. The size enclosure you will need for an adult burm will be at least 6ft long x 3ft wide x 2ft high. |
=== Substrate === | === Substrate === | ||
| - | + | Aspen is often used for younger burms-they like to burrow to feel safe. When they get large aspen is not practical. Newspaper is a great substrate and easy to use. Craft paper, paper towels, and cypress mulch are some other options. NEVER EVER use cedar or pine. Make sure to always keep your cages clean it is imperative to your burms health. | |
=== Temperature === | === Temperature === | ||
| - | + | For basic keeping the following temps are recommended- | |
| + | Ambient/cool side-minimum of 82 maximum of 85-86. 84 degrees is preferred. | ||
| + | Hotside/hotspot-minimum of 88 maximum of 94. 90 degrees is a solid temp. | ||
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| + | Consistent temps are key. Good set-ups with proper maintained temps are of utmost importance. It is best if the temps do not vary from day to night. If this does occur and temps drop to 80 during the night then a warm-up during the day will help offset this. Quick or prolonged drops in temps can lead to health issues. | ||
=== Humidity === | === Humidity === | ||
| - | + | A minimum of 40% with 60% being the most desirable. A level of 70% is ok as long as proper ventilation is provided. | |
=== Lighting === | === Lighting === | ||
== Feeding == | == Feeding == | ||
=== Diet === | === Diet === | ||
| - | + | Burms should be started off with rat “fuzzies”. Never feed your burm live prey. Rule of thumb is to feed your snake prey items that are no bigger than the widest part of their body. They will start with rats and eventually move to larger items such as rabbits or pigs. They will eat prey items that are too big for their size but this can lead to regurgitation of the item. It is easy to overfeed a burm-they are always eager to eat. Feed enough to keep it healthy not obese. | |
=== Supplements === | === Supplements === | ||
=== Books === | === Books === | ||
| - | + | *The Guide to Owning Burmese Pythons - by John Coborn | |
| + | *The General Care and Maintenance of Burmese Pythons - by Philippe de Vosjoli | ||
| + | *Advanced Vivarium Systems / AVS Books Burmese Python - by Philippe de Vosjoli and Roger Klingenbrug DVM | ||
== Author == | == Author == | ||
