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Veiled Chameleon

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== Housing ==
== Housing ==
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For an adult veiled chameleon the enclosure will need to be approx. 4-6'T x 3'D x 3'W. The veiled chameleon needs a full-screened enclosure for proper ventilation. Aquariums do not allow for proper airflow which can cause respiratory infections and the glass creates a reflection which the cham will see himself in as a threat and potential enemy. The screen makes it tricky to get heat and humidity levels where they need to be, but it is what they require. Decorate with a waterfall, driftwood, fake vines and plants and add some real plants, too. Do research on what is safe, but here are a few to get you started:
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A veiled up to 6 months old is fine housed in an open-air enclosure of approx. 24"T x 18"W x 18"D. By the time your veiled chameleon is 6 months old the enclosure will need to be approx. 4-6'T x 3'D x 3'W. This will be your chams adult-size enclosure. The veiled chameleon needs a full-screened enclosure for proper ventilation. Aquariums do not allow for proper airflow which can cause respiratory infections and the glass creates a reflection which the cham will see himself in as a threat and potential enemy. The screen makes it tricky to get heat and humidity levels where they need to be, but it is what they require. Decorate with a waterfall, driftwood, fake vines and plants and add some real plants, too. Do research on what is safe, but here are a few to get you started:
* Pothos
* Pothos
Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your cham...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. If you choose to use these, read the instructions carefully!
Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your cham...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. If you choose to use these, read the instructions carefully!
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[[Image:Example.jpg]]
 
== Feeding ==
== Feeding ==
=== Sexing ===
=== Sexing ===
The sex of young veiled chameleons is relatively easy. The males have a small spur on the back of their hind feet. As they grow more mature the colors of the males will be brighter, the body shape is thinner where the female is somewhat broader, and, as stated above, the male helmet is larger than the female.
The sex of young veiled chameleons is relatively easy. The males have a small spur on the back of their hind feet. As they grow more mature the colors of the males will be brighter, the body shape is thinner where the female is somewhat broader, and, as stated above, the male helmet is larger than the female.
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=== Egging ===
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Females can become gravid with no male present. The eggs will not be fertile, but you will need to set up a laying area so she can deposit her eggs and keep from becoming egg-bound. This can be fatal if not dealt with promptly. Occasionally the female will absorb her non-fertile eggs, but fertile eggs must be laid and more often than not, the infertile eggs will be laid, too.
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[[Image:the_color_of_eggs.jpg|thumb|left|Gravid Colors - Photo by Author]]
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A gravid female has very distinct colors for this time as depicted in the photo to the left. This is when you should place a bucket of moist sand in the bottom of the enclosure so she can become accustomed to it and test it occasionally. This can be a small trash can, a shallow bucket, or any container that will hold 12"-18" of the moistened sand. It should not be so wet that there be sloppy water as the sand is dug towards the bottom, but it does need to be wet enough to hold it's form. Approximately three weeks from the onset of her color change she will be ready to lay. The female will dig to the bottom of the container and if all goes well she will lay all of them (captive chams can lay up to 60 eggs) within approx. 8 hours. Give her privacy during the dig. If she sees you she may stop digging because her "nest" has been seen. Covering the sides with a dark sheet leaving only the front open will offer her added privacy.
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During the first signs of color changing you need to up her fluid intake. The development of eggs requires an enormous amount of water being pulled from her body. It's imperative this be replaced. Extra misting and showers (if she's used to showering) are a must. My girl drank easily from a syringe, but she was also used to doing this already. Do not do anything out of the ordinary from your daily routine with her. Continue normal activity until the day she begins to lay...then leave her be. No misting, no food, no peeking!!
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Once she has laid she will fill in the hole and climb back to her place of rest. She will be tired and sometimes the wear of laying can cause severe stress. If she is not able to climb back up you will want to see if she'll take some fluids. Rarely, but it does happen, egging fatigue needs to be addressed by an experienced reptile vet.
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It's difficult to find the eggs once she's laid them. However, you can remove the eggs immediately after she has left since chams hold no motherly ties to them. As long as they're infertile you can simply throw them out. If you have another pet that could benefit from the nutrients these fresh eggs offer, by all means do so. My plated lizard went ga-ga over them. If the eggs are fertile and you are wanting to incubate them, simply do a quick [http://www.google.com Google] search and browse the wealth of information there.
== Conclusion ==
== Conclusion ==

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