For anyone reptile friendly!

Veiled Chameleon

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(Difference between revisions)
Current revision (23:54, 26 April 2008) (view source)
(Lighting)
 
== Taxonomy ==
== Taxonomy ==
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<div style="float: right; padding: 5px;">
 
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http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/3650/angryserenitynu9.jpg <br />
 
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Female, juvenile "Sunburst" in "angry" mode <br />
 
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Photo By: [http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=64 prism_wolf]
 
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</div>
 
'''Order:''' Squamata <br />
'''Order:''' Squamata <br />
'''Family:''' Chamaeleonidae <br />
'''Family:''' Chamaeleonidae <br />
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'''Genus/species:''' Chamaeleo calyptratus <br />
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'''Genus:''' Chamaeleo <br />
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'''Species:''' Calyptratus
== Introduction ==
== Introduction ==
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Veiled chameleons are native to Yemen and southern Saudi Arabia, and reside in an amazing variety of different habitats and are one of about 80 species considered "Old World" lizards. These are true chameleons. As adults they have a large helmet that begins as a nub when they hatch. Male helmets are larger than females, but both sexes have them. As babies they are mostly a very bright green, but mature into other colored bands of brilliant blues, greens, golds, reds and black. The female colors are much more muted and lean more towards the "earthy" tones. Although chameleons at rest tend to assume colors similar to their surroundings, color change is most often used to signify emotional state much like a mood ring. Their eyes move independently and can swivel nearly 180 degrees in opposite directions. When prey is spotted it will focus both eyes and then the tongue goes into action. The tongue can be up to 1 1/2 times the length of it's body.
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Veiled chameleons are native to Yemen and southern Saudi Arabia, and reside in an amazing variety of different habitats and are one of about 80 species considered "Old World" lizards. These are true chameleons. As adults they have a large helmet that begins as a nub when they hatch. Male helmets are larger than females, but both sexes have them. As babies they are mostly a very bright green, but mature into other colored bands of brilliant blues, greens, golds, reds and black. The female colors are much more muted and lean more towards the "earthy" tones. Although chameleons at rest tend to assume colors similar to their surroundings, color change is most often used to signify emotional state much like a mood ring. They cannot choose their colors of camouflage. They have a set colors unique to the species and within that species - unique to the particular region in which they live.
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[[Image:I_am_angry.jpg|thumb|left|Serenity - Owned by Author]]
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Their eyes move independently and can swivel nearly 180 degrees in opposite directions. When prey is spotted it will focus both eyes and then the tongue goes into action. The tongue can be up to 1 1/2 times the length of it's body.
Veiled chameleons are extremely territorial. Male and female chams only tolerate each other for mating.
Veiled chameleons are extremely territorial. Male and female chams only tolerate each other for mating.
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The sex of young veiled chameleons is relatively easy. The males have a small spur on the back of their hind feet. As they grow more mature the colors of the males will be brighter, the body shape is thinner where the female is somewhat broader, and, as stated above, the male helmet is larger than the female.
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Like most lizards, chameleons have a third eye called the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parietal_eye parietal eye]. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a very tiny milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety.
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== Difficulty Level ==
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== Difficulty ==
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Difficult. These are not a beginner lizard. They're care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They are nervous as babies and some never get past that as adults. Some can become quite aggressive. Veiled chameleons are often just a display animal, but with regular handling can get used to being a hands on pet.
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Difficult. These are not a beginner lizard. They're care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They are nervous as babies and some never get past that as adults. Some can become quite aggressive. Veiled chameleons are often just a display animal, but with regular [http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Veiled_Chameleon#Handling handling] SOMETIMES they can get used to being a hands on pet.
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== Size ==
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== Basic Info ==
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=== Size ===
Male body length can reach between 17 and 24 inches (43 to 61 cm) from head to the tip of the tail and they are usually thin in appearance. Females reach between 10 and 14 inches (25 to 35.5 cm) in length. The female's casque (helmet) is smaller than the males, and they are more heavy-bodied.
Male body length can reach between 17 and 24 inches (43 to 61 cm) from head to the tip of the tail and they are usually thin in appearance. Females reach between 10 and 14 inches (25 to 35.5 cm) in length. The female's casque (helmet) is smaller than the males, and they are more heavy-bodied.
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Like most lizards, chameleons have a third eye called the parietal eye. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a very tiny milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety.
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They can reach sexual maturity in 4-5 months at only 8-12 inches long. At about 1 year they should be full grown. Even though the females are ready to breed so young this does not mean it is safe for her to do so. She is still growing and becoming gravid could harm her being so young.
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== Lifespan ==
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=== Lifespan ===
5 yrs for females, 8 yrs. for males.
5 yrs for females, 8 yrs. for males.
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== Growth ==
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=== Handling ===
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They can reach sexual maturity in 4-5 months at only 8-12 inches long. At about 1 year they should be full grown. Even though the females are ready to breed so young this does not mean it is safe for her to do so. She is still growing and becoming gravid could harm her being so young.
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Handling these lizards is something normally not done. Chameleons of all species stress easily and the stress from handling an especially sensitive chameleon can cause its death. These are mostly a display animal. Occasionally there will be the cham who doesn't mind being handled. This is the exception - not the rule...and females are easier to handle than males. The only way to find out if the cham you have chosen is susceptible to hands-on stress is to go "hands on".
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The signs of stress tolerance are evident. When you bring out the cham to handle they often turn very dark in color. Even babies who are a neon green will become a very dark green in color. As the cham matures and their adult colors they're so known for come in - these colors will be muted under the darkening of the skin. Once the animal is out for several minutes the colors will either return to a more normal state if it tolerates the handling, or they remain a very dark color. If the dark color remains after 5-10 minutes of handling then you may have an animal that will not tolerate being handled is is best left as a beautiful display animal.
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== Housing ==
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A veiled up to 6 months old is fine housed in an open-air enclosure of approx. 24"T x 18"W x 18"D. By the time your veiled chameleon is 6 months old the enclosure will need to be approx. 4-6'T x 3'D x 3'W. This will be your chams adult-size enclosure. The veiled chameleon needs a full-screened enclosure for proper ventilation. Aquariums do not allow for proper airflow which can cause respiratory infections and the glass creates a reflection which the cham will see himself in as a threat and potential enemy. The screen makes it tricky to get heat and humidity levels where they need to be, but it is what they require. Decorate with a waterfall, driftwood, fake vines and plants and add some real plants, too. Do research on what is safe, but here are a few to get you started:
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* Pothos
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* Spider plant
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* Wandering jew
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A link to more safe plants: http://www.geocities.com/chameleoncreatures/nontoxicplants.html
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=== Substrate ===
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Moss, bark, sand and the likes may look nice...but it's horribly bad. This stuff is deadly and has killed many reptiles. It causes impaction which often requires surgery to remove if found in time. It sure looks nice, but with a chameleons sticky tongue it's very easy for it to get caught. The food also tends to borrow in it. Instead of trying to explain this - here is a link that offers a "burrito" kind of substrate option since this also helps with humidity.
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* http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/weblog/archives/000152.html
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* http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/weblog/archives/000154.html
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== Temperature ==
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=== Temperature ===
Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots:
Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots:
* Basking: 90-95
* Basking: 90-95
* Ambient: 80-85
* Ambient: 80-85
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* Cool end/night time: 75 for babies under a year, 70 for adults.
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* Cool end/night time: 70 for babies under a year, 65 for adults.
Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in.
Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in.
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== UVB ==
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=== Humidity ===
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Using a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer will help you keep on top of this. This aids in shedding and some hydration. Between 30% - 50% is ideal with periods of complete dryness to keep the chance of molds and fungi growing. Daily misting of the plants will also help. There's also an automatic drip system that some use if you have techy abilities. Using a dripper on top of the cage helps, but it can fill the bottom of the cage quickly making a drowning pit for crix and other food and for young chams if they should fall. Having something for the water to collect in will help with that. A container of water with a bubble stone used in fish tanks will also help with humidity.
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=== Lighting ===
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Basking lights are very easy and inexpensive if you stay away from the pet stores for this one. They need a photoperiod with daylight and nighttime as they would in their natural home. Instead of using the expensive "reptile basking lights", go to your local retail store and get a regular incandescent light bulb, such as what you would use for a lamp.
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Veilds should NOT have night heat unless their nighttime temps go below the what's recommended. Their bodies need to regulate to lower temps in order for them to "rest and recharge" for the next day. They come from climates where the temps tend to get very low at night therefore they should be allowed this in a captive environment.
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Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. Veiled chameleons are actually low-level UVB requiring reptiles. They don't need the same bulbs used for high level needing reptiles such as iguanas and bearded dragons. If the UVB source emits too much then breeding females have deformed eggs often destroying the embryos and degenerates cell tissue on every level in grown chams. The brands to go with:
Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. Short version - UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. Veiled chameleons are actually low-level UVB requiring reptiles. They don't need the same bulbs used for high level needing reptiles such as iguanas and bearded dragons. If the UVB source emits too much then breeding females have deformed eggs often destroying the embryos and degenerates cell tissue on every level in grown chams. The brands to go with:
Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your cham...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. If you choose to use these, read the instructions carefully!
Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your cham...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. If you choose to use these, read the instructions carefully!
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== Substrate ==
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== Feeding ==
-
Moss, bark, sand and the likes may look nice...but it's horribly bad. This stuff is deadly and has killed many reptiles. It causes impaction which often requires surgery to remove if found in time. It sure looks nice, but with a chameleons sticky tongue it's very easy for it to get caught. The food also tends to borrow in it. Instead of trying to explain this - here is a link that offers a "burrito" kind of substrate option since this also helps with humidity.
+
=== Diet ===
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* http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/weblog/archives/000152.html
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* http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/weblog/archives/000154.html
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== Diet ==
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Crickets are a primary food and should be the bulk of their diet. Gutloading is extremely important since crickets are just an empty shell. They really do live by the adage "You are what you eat". What they eat has a direct impact on what your veiled chameleon eats. If the crix eat good, the cham eats good. Offer gutload and fresh greens and some veggies for a healthy cricket meal. Other live food to offer your chameleon is mealworm, superworms, waxworms, silkworms and definitely butterworms. Butterworms are high in calcium for these high calcium needing reptiles. As adults you can offer small amounts of salad such as fresh greens, veggies and fruit - ONLY as a small additional food supplement.  Serve insects that are only as long as the width of the chameleons mouth to prevent a choking hazard. You can attach a feeding cup (bird seed cups) for crawly insects to keep them in one place.
Crickets are a primary food and should be the bulk of their diet. Gutloading is extremely important since crickets are just an empty shell. They really do live by the adage "You are what you eat". What they eat has a direct impact on what your veiled chameleon eats. If the crix eat good, the cham eats good. Offer gutload and fresh greens and some veggies for a healthy cricket meal. Other live food to offer your chameleon is mealworm, superworms, waxworms, silkworms and definitely butterworms. Butterworms are high in calcium for these high calcium needing reptiles. As adults you can offer small amounts of salad such as fresh greens, veggies and fruit - ONLY as a small additional food supplement.  Serve insects that are only as long as the width of the chameleons mouth to prevent a choking hazard. You can attach a feeding cup (bird seed cups) for crawly insects to keep them in one place.
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== Supplements ==
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=== Supplements ===
Calcium (no D3) should be added to the diet in the form of dust on the crickets. Put the crix in a small container and add the calcium. Gently shake to cover and serve.
Calcium (no D3) should be added to the diet in the form of dust on the crickets. Put the crix in a small container and add the calcium. Gently shake to cover and serve.
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== Cage Size ==
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=== Hydration ===
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For an adult veiled chameleon the enclosure will need to be approx. 4-6'T x 3'D x 3'W. The veiled chameleon needs a full-screened enclosure for proper ventilation. Aquariums do not allow for proper airflow which can cause respiratory infections and the glass creates a reflection which the cham will see himself in as a threat and potential enemy. The screen makes it tricky to get heat and humidity levels where they need to be, but it is what they require. Decorate with a waterfall, driftwood, fake vines and plants and add some real plants, too. Do research on what is safe, but here are a few to get you started:
+
Veiled chameleons dehydrate eaily. Providing water for these "dew drinkers" is the hardest thing to provide. Some of the tips in the humidity portion of this care guide will also offer ways for the cham to drink. My chams drink from the water drops caught in the screen mesh. Mist twice daily with warm water.
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* Pothos
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During a female's gravid period dehydration is a more serious issue. As the eggs develeop they suck a lot of moisture from the body. It's imperative females be kept well hydrated using good misting systems, continual misting through the days, drippers, or even ice cubes atop the enclosure to melt down inside.
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* Spider plant
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-
* Wandering jew
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-
A link to more safe plants: http://www.geocities.com/chameleoncreatures/nontoxicplants.html
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== Advanced ==
 +
=== Sexing ===
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The sex of young veiled chameleons is relatively easy. The males have a small spur on the back of their hind feet. As they grow more mature the colors of the males will be brighter, the body shape is thinner where the female is somewhat broader, and, as stated above, the male helmet is larger than the female.
-
== Humidity ==
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=== Egging ===
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Using a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer will help you keep on top of this. This aids in shedding and some hydration. Between 30% - 50% is ideal with periods of complete dryness to keep the chance of molds and fungi growing. Daily misting of the plants will also help. There's also an automatic drip system that some use if you have techy abilities. Using a dripper on top of the cage helps, but it can fill the bottom of the cage quickly making a drowning pit for crix and other food and for young chams if they should fall. Having something for the water to collect in will help with that. A container of water with a bubble stone used in fish tanks will also help with humidity.
+
Females can become gravid with no male present. The eggs will not be fertile, but you will need to set up a laying area so she can deposit her eggs and keep from becoming egg-bound. This can be fatal if not dealt with promptly. Occasionally the female will absorb her non-fertile eggs, but fertile eggs must be laid and more often than not, the infertile eggs will be laid, too.  
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== Hydration ==
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[[Image:the_color_of_eggs.jpg|thumb|left|Gravid Colors - Photo by Author]]
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Veiled chameleons dehydrate eaily. Providing water for these "dew drinkers" is the hardest thing to provide. Some of the tips in the humidity portion of this care guide will also offer ways for the cham to drink. My chams drink from the water drops caught in the screen mesh. Mist twice daily with warm water.
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A gravid female has very distinct colors for this time as depicted in the photo to the left. This is when you should place a bucket of moist sand in the bottom of the enclosure so she can become accustomed to it and test it occasionally. This can be a small trash can, a shallow bucket, or any container that will hold 12"-18" of the moistened sand. It should not be so wet that there be sloppy water as the sand is dug towards the bottom, but it does need to be wet enough to hold it's form. Approximately three weeks from the onset of her color change she will be ready to lay. The female will dig to the bottom of the container and if all goes well she will lay all of them (captive chams can lay up to 60 eggs) within approx. 8 hours. Give her privacy during the dig. If she sees you she may stop digging because her "nest" has been seen. Covering the sides with a dark sheet leaving only the front open will offer her added privacy.
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During the first signs of color changing you need to up her fluid intake. The development of eggs requires an enormous amount of water being pulled from her body. It's imperative this be replaced. Extra misting and showers (if she's used to showering) are a must. My girl drank easily from a syringe, but she was also used to doing this already. Do not do anything out of the ordinary from your daily routine with her. Continue normal activity until the day she begins to lay...then leave her be. No misting, no food, no peeking!!
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Once she has laid she will fill in the hole and climb back to her place of rest. She will be tired and sometimes the wear of laying can cause severe stress. If she is not able to climb back up you will want to see if she'll take some fluids. Rarely, but it does happen, egging fatigue needs to be addressed by an experienced reptile vet.
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It's difficult to find the eggs once she's laid them. However, you can remove the eggs immediately after she has left since chams hold no motherly ties to them. As long as they're infertile you can simply throw them out. If you have another pet that could benefit from the nutrients these fresh eggs offer, by all means do so. My plated lizard went ga-ga over them. If the eggs are fertile and you are wanting to incubate them, simply do a quick [http://www.google.com Google] search and browse the wealth of information there.
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== Conclusion ==
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The final word here is - if you want a lizard to care for that does not require handling, then the chameleon is for you. As long as you understand that they are a high-maintenance animal and require specific care a little more challenging than most, then the chameleon is for you. If you enjoy the magnificent colors of these "tree gems" that often stay in the farther reaches of the shadows, then the chameleon is for you.  
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Veiled chameleons are the easiest of the chams to care for, and the above statements are what you should expect. Many of them are not so secretive, but at least this allows you to understand that it is, at least, a possibility.
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== Websites ==
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== References ==
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=== Websites ===
'''General Care'''
'''General Care'''
* http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/care-sheet.html
* http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/care-sheet.html
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* http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
* http://www.geocities.com/chameleoncreatures/veiled.html
* http://www.geocities.com/chameleoncreatures/veiled.html
* http://www.sundialreptile.com/Care%20Sheet--veiled.htm
* http://www.sundialreptile.com/Care%20Sheet--veiled.htm
* http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/
* http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/
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=== Books ===
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'''Books'''
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* "Chameleons - Nature's Hidden Jewels" 2nd Ed. By Petr Necas
* "Chameleons - Nature's Hidden Jewels" 2nd Ed. By Petr Necas
* "Chameleons - Their Care and Breeding" By Linda J. Davison
* "Chameleons - Their Care and Breeding" By Linda J. Davison
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'''Many of these books can be found on Amazon for very reasonable prices. Use the Amazon link on the main forum pages and help to contribute to the upkeep of all that is good here.'''
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== Author ==
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This article was originally written by
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[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=64 prism_wolf].
 +
View other articles by
 +
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:prism_wolf prism_wolf].
 +
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.
[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:Care Guides]]
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[[Category:prism_wolf]]

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