Veiled Chameleon

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 == Difficulty ==
-Difficult. These are not a beginner lizard. They're care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They are nervous as babies and some never get past that as adults. Some can become quite aggressive. Veiled chameleons are often just a display animal, but with regular [http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Veiled_Chameleon#Handling handling] can get used to being a hands on pet.
+Difficult. These are not a beginner lizard. They're care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They are nervous as babies and some never get past that as adults. Some can become quite aggressive. Veiled chameleons are often just a display animal, but with regular [http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Veiled_Chameleon#Handling handling] SOMETIMES they can get used to being a hands on pet.
 == Basic Info ==
 === Handling ===
-Handling these lizards is something normally not done. Chameleons of all species stress easily and the stress from handling an especially sensitive chameleon can cause its death. These are mostly a display animal. Occasionally there will be the cham who doesn't mind being handled. This is the exception - not the rule. The only way to find out if the cham you have chosen is susceptible to hands-on stress is to go "hands on".
+Handling these lizards is something normally not done. Chameleons of all species stress easily and the stress from handling an especially sensitive chameleon can cause its death. These are mostly a display animal. Occasionally there will be the cham who doesn't mind being handled. This is the exception - not the rule...and females are easier to handle than males. The only way to find out if the cham you have chosen is susceptible to hands-on stress is to go "hands on".
 The signs of stress tolerance are evident. When you bring out the cham to handle they often turn very dark in color. Even babies who are a neon green will become a very dark green in color. As the cham matures and their adult colors they're so known for come in - these colors will be muted under the darkening of the skin. Once the animal is out for several minutes the colors will either return to a more normal state if it tolerates the handling, or they remain a very dark color. If the dark color remains after 5-10 minutes of handling then you may have an animal that will not tolerate being handled is is best left as a beautiful display animal.
 == Housing ==
-For an adult veiled chameleon the enclosure will need to be approx. 4-6'T x 3'D x 3'W. The veiled chameleon needs a full-screened enclosure for proper ventilation. Aquariums do not allow for proper airflow which can cause respiratory infections and the glass creates a reflection which the cham will see himself in as a threat and potential enemy. The screen makes it tricky to get heat and humidity levels where they need to be, but it is what they require. Decorate with a waterfall, driftwood, fake vines and plants and add some real plants, too. Do research on what is safe, but here are a few to get you started:
+A veiled up to 6 months old is fine housed in an open-air enclosure of approx. 24"T x 18"W x 18"D. By the time your veiled chameleon is 6 months old the enclosure will need to be approx. 4-6'T x 3'D x 3'W. This will be your chams adult-size enclosure. The veiled chameleon needs a full-screened enclosure for proper ventilation. Aquariums do not allow for proper airflow which can cause respiratory infections and the glass creates a reflection which the cham will see himself in as a threat and potential enemy. The screen makes it tricky to get heat and humidity levels where they need to be, but it is what they require. Decorate with a waterfall, driftwood, fake vines and plants and add some real plants, too. Do research on what is safe, but here are a few to get you started:
 * Pothos
 Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your cham...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. If you choose to use these, read the instructions carefully!
-[[Image:Example.jpg]]
 == Feeding ==
 === Hydration ===
 Veiled chameleons dehydrate eaily. Providing water for these "dew drinkers" is the hardest thing to provide. Some of the tips in the humidity portion of this care guide will also offer ways for the cham to drink. My chams drink from the water drops caught in the screen mesh. Mist twice daily with warm water.
+During a female's gravid period dehydration is a more serious issue. As the eggs develeop they suck a lot of moisture from the body. It's imperative females be kept well hydrated using good misting systems, continual misting through the days, drippers, or even ice cubes atop the enclosure to melt down inside.
 == Advanced ==
 === Sexing ===
 The sex of young veiled chameleons is relatively easy. The males have a small spur on the back of their hind feet. As they grow more mature the colors of the males will be brighter, the body shape is thinner where the female is somewhat broader, and, as stated above, the male helmet is larger than the female.
+=== Egging ===
+Females can become gravid with no male present. The eggs will not be fertile, but you will need to set up a laying area so she can deposit her eggs and keep from becoming egg-bound. This can be fatal if not dealt with promptly. Occasionally the female will absorb her non-fertile eggs, but fertile eggs must be laid and more often than not, the infertile eggs will be laid, too.
+[[Image:the_color_of_eggs.jpg|thumb|left|Gravid Colors - Photo by Author]]
+A gravid female has very distinct colors for this time as depicted in the photo to the left. This is when you should place a bucket of moist sand in the bottom of the enclosure so she can become accustomed to it and test it occasionally. This can be a small trash can, a shallow bucket, or any container that will hold 12"-18" of the moistened sand. It should not be so wet that there be sloppy water as the sand is dug towards the bottom, but it does need to be wet enough to hold it's form. Approximately three weeks from the onset of her color change she will be ready to lay. The female will dig to the bottom of the container and if all goes well she will lay all of them (captive chams can lay up to 60 eggs) within approx. 8 hours. Give her privacy during the dig. If she sees you she may stop digging because her "nest" has been seen. Covering the sides with a dark sheet leaving only the front open will offer her added privacy.
+During the first signs of color changing you need to up her fluid intake. The development of eggs requires an enormous amount of water being pulled from her body. It's imperative this be replaced. Extra misting and showers (if she's used to showering) are a must. My girl drank easily from a syringe, but she was also used to doing this already. Do not do anything out of the ordinary from your daily routine with her. Continue normal activity until the day she begins to lay...then leave her be. No misting, no food, no peeking!!
+Once she has laid she will fill in the hole and climb back to her place of rest. She will be tired and sometimes the wear of laying can cause severe stress. If she is not able to climb back up you will want to see if she'll take some fluids. Rarely, but it does happen, egging fatigue needs to be addressed by an experienced reptile vet.
+It's difficult to find the eggs once she's laid them. However, you can remove the eggs immediately after she has left since chams hold no motherly ties to them. As long as they're infertile you can simply throw them out. If you have another pet that could benefit from the nutrients these fresh eggs offer, by all means do so. My plated lizard went ga-ga over them. If the eggs are fertile and you are wanting to incubate them, simply do a quick [http://www.google.com Google] search and browse the wealth of information there.
 == Conclusion ==
 '''General Care'''
 * http://www.veiled-chameleon.com/care-sheet.html
+* http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
 * http://www.geocities.com/chameleoncreatures/veiled.html
 * http://www.sundialreptile.com/Care%20Sheet--veiled.htm
 * "Chameleons - Nature's Hidden Jewels" 2nd Ed. By Petr Necas
 * "Chameleons - Their Care and Breeding" By Linda J. Davison
+'''Many of these books can be found on Amazon for very reasonable prices. Use the Amazon link on the main forum pages and help to contribute to the upkeep of all that is good here.'''
 == Author ==

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Veiled Chameleon

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