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Order: Squamata

Genus/species: Eublepharis macularius

Leopard geckos can live 20 years or longer and reach 8-10 inches in length. They are commonly yellow and white with black spots. Baby geckos start out with a stripped pattern that changes into spot as they mature. Never pickup or grab a leopard gecko by its tail as it will break off.

Either an aquarium or terrarium should be used. The rule of thumb is one gecko per ten gallons of tank. Only one male gecko should be housed per a tank. Multiple females can be housed together. Housing a male and female together will often create stress on the female as the male will constantly pick on her to mate. Leopard geckos mate easily in captivity, so avoid housing a male and female together unless you are willing to deal with breeding and incubating the eggs. A moist hide, a small container with moss or dirt misted daily, helps with shedding. You'll also need a shallow water dish, food bowl, and a calcium bowl.

You should setup the tank so one side is the "cold" side and the opposite side is the "warm" side. A heat pad should be affixed to the underside of the "warm" side of the tank. Verify the floor of the "warm" side is 88-90 F. A temperature controller is recommended to avoid burning the gecko. Lighting is not necessary as Leopard Geckos are nocturnal and do not bask in the sun. Heat rocks or similar products should not be used. They do not heat evenly and can easily burn the gecko.

== Substrate ==

Paper towels, reptile carpet, ceramic tile, or slate are all good choices of substrate. Avoid loose substrate, as it creates a risk of impaction. Leopard Geckos will often eat the substrate while hunting food, and the substrate is not always digested.

Crickets or mealworms are the suggested diet for a leopard gecko. Waxworms are considered a treat and should be feed sparingly. Adult geckos, especially breeding females, can be fed a pinkie mice occasionally. When selecting crickets a rule of thumb is the cricket should be half the size of the gecko's head or smaller. It is recommend to gut load the crickets to provide more nutritional value. Supplements added to the worms and crickets is also recommend. You can coat the mealworms, crickets, etc with calcium by placing them in a bag with a small amount of calcium to dust them. D3 can also be used as a supplement, but should not be used for every feeding, as too much D3 is a problem. Make sure you remove any uneaten food by the end of the day. Insects will sometimes pick on the gecko while it is sleeping, chewing away at their feet or other tender areas.

== Sexing ==