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Ball Python

2010-01-14T03:56:18Z

Breeder: Started work on ball python careguide - mike

'''Basic Ball Python Care'''

'''Enclosure'''

Baby: Plastic Shoebox (6 qt bins)

Subadult to adult: Plastic Sweaterbox (32-qt bin)

Large adult female: Blanket Box (~60 qt bins)

Temps: Hot spot should be about 88-92 Fahrenheit with the cool end of the cage about 80 degrees.

Hide boxes should be provided if you decide to keep your snake in an aquarium. The open sides will stress out the snake so you must make sure it has plenty of places to hide or it may go off feed.

Fresh water should be provided at least twice weekly. I recommend the water bowl NOT be large enough for the snake to submerge or the snake will defecate and spoil its water.

'''Feeding'''

Meals should be just barely larger around than the widest part of the snake. Babies should be fed every 5-7 days and adults can be fed every 7-10 days. If feeding live be sure to watch to make sure your snake is not injured by the prey item. Do not leave rats unattended with your snake or they will chew large holes into the side of your pet.

Panther Chameleon

2009-09-22T15:31:08Z

C1rc4: New page: == Taxonomy == '''Order:''' Squamata '''Family:''' Chamaeleonidae '''Genus:''' Furcifer '''Species:''' F. pardalis == Introduction == The panther chameleon is native to ...

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' Squamata 
'''Family:''' Chamaeleonidae 
'''Genus:''' Furcifer 
'''Species:''' F. pardalis

== Introduction ==
The panther chameleon is native to the island of Madagascar. This species of chameleon lives in a semi-humid to humid environment, and can also be found in Reunion and Mauritius.

== Difficulty ==

== Basic Info ==
=== Size ===
Male panther chameleons can grow up to (around) 15-18 inches, while females stay at a smaller size, generally around 9-14 inches.

The male will often weigh somewhere between 150 to 260 grams, while the females range from around 35 to 80 grams.

=== Lifespan ===

5+ years in captivity

=== Handling ===

== Housing ==
=== Substrate ===

=== Temperature ===

=== Humidity ===

=== Lighting ===

== Feeding ==
=== Diet ===

=== Supplements ===

=== Hydration ===

== Advanced ==
=== Sexing ===

=== Breeding ===

== Conclusion ==

== References ==
=== Websites ===

=== Books ===

== Author ==
This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1 rwagoner].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:rwagoner rwagoner].
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.

[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:rwagoner]]

Viper Gecko

2009-07-11T13:38:41Z

C1rc4:

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' Squamata 
'''Family:''' Gekkonidae 
'''Genus:''' Teratolepis 
'''Species:''' T. fasciata

== Introduction ==

== Difficulty ==

== Basic Info ==
=== Size ===

=== Lifespan ===

=== Handling ===

== Housing ==
Viper geckos require less space than most gecko species. Due to their small size, they can be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium. Some breeders will keep this species in a reptile rack. This method is often the most convenient method for housing when you have multiple geckos.

Females can be housed together, but you should always monitor their intake of food, as like other geckos, they may bully each other. Males need to be housed individually, as they are aggressive towards each other.Only house males and females together if you are prepared to hatch baby viper geckos.

=== Substrate ===
The best substrate is paper towels. They are the safest, and easiest to clean. This method will prevent impaction due to sand, or other loose substrate. Make sure you have a hide on both sides of the tank (hot/cold), as well as a small humid hide.

=== Temperature ===
Viper geckos are nocturnal, so there is no need for UVB bulbs. It is best to give them a light cycle, either by standard household light bulbs or the room lighting. The ambient lighting should consist of 16 hours of daylight in the summer, and 8 hours in the winter. This will stimulate a natural environment.

The ambient temperature should be around 75-80F, with a hot side reaching around 90F. This temperature can drop up to 10F during the night. There are several options that can be used to maintain this temperature. The first, and probably best option, is to use a heatmat which is regulated by a thermostat. Herpstat makes a model, Herpstat ND, which allows night drop temperatures to be set. This will regulate the temperature throughout the day and night to maintain the proper levels. The second option is a heat light with an adjustable fixture. You can check the temperatures and increase or decrease the output as needed. You have the choice of bulbs - black, infrared, or daylight.

=== Humidity ===
The humidity should remain relatively low, expect in the humid hide. Viper geckos are from a dry environment, so too much humidity can cause respiratory infection. If this is left untreated, it can lead to further problems, and eventually death.

=== Lighting ===

== Feeding ==
=== Diet ===

=== Supplements ===

=== Hydration ===

== Advanced ==
=== Sexing ===

=== Breeding ===

== Conclusion ==

== References ==
=== Websites ===

=== Books ===

== Author ==
This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1 rwagoner].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:rwagoner rwagoner].
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.

[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:rwagoner]]

Madagascar Giant Day Gecko

2008-04-28T01:36:55Z

C1rc4: /* Substrate */

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' Squamata 
'''Family:''' Gekkonidae 
'''Genus:''' Phelsuma 
'''Species:''' Phelsuma madagascariensis grandis

== Introduction ==
The Madagascar Giant Day Gecko is one of the largest living gecko species. It has a body color of bright green, sometimes being a bluish green.

== Difficulty ==

== Basic Info ==
=== Size ===
Madagascar Giant Day Gecko's can grow around 11" in length.

=== Lifespan ===
Approx. 10 years with proper care.

=== Handling ===
Handling should be avoided. Madagascar Giant Day Gecko's are fragile, and their skin can be damaged with handling. It is best to avoid handling unless absolutely necessary.

== Housing ==
=== Substrate ===
It is best to use peat-free moss or cocofibre soil substitute. Plants can also be used to help maintain humidity and give the enclosure a more natural look.

=== Temperature ===
The daytime temperature should be kept between 80-85F, with a night time temperature between 72-76F. The temperature should never exceed 90F.

=== Humidity ===
Madagascar Giant Day Gecko's need around 70% humidity. Make sure to use a hygrometer to monitor the humidity at all times in the enclosure.

=== Lighting ===
UVB and UVA lighting should be offered daily. UVB should be around 5%.

== Feeding ==
=== Diet ===
A varied of insects should be offered, including crickets, mealworms, wingless fruitflies, phoenix worms, and an occasional wax worm.

=== Supplements ===
Dusting food with pure calcium is recommend. Make sure to dust with calcium with d3 2-3 times a week, as well as vitamins.

=== Hydration ===

== Advanced ==
=== Sexing ===

=== Breeding ===

== Conclusion ==

== References ==
=== Websites ===

=== Books ===

== Author ==
This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=2 c1rc4].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:c1rc4 c1rc4].
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.

[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:c1rc4]]

Sudan Plated Lizard

2008-04-26T17:47:58Z

Prism wolf: /* Diet */

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' Squamata 
'''Family:''' Cordylidae 
'''Genus:''' Gerrhosaurus 
'''Species:''' major

== Introduction ==
The Sudan plated lizard (AKA ''Round-nosed Plated Lizard'' or ''Rough-scaled Plated lizard'') is from the arid regions of Eastern and southeastern Africa. The name "Sudan" plated lizard simply comes from someone assigning this name since it is shipped to Sudan first and then imported from there. They spend much of their time underground or in rocky crevices to escape the hot African sun. This contributes to their shy nature since hiding is in their programming. The Sudan's in particular live in the rockier regions where vegetation is scarce. In the wild their diet consists of a high insect diet, but being omnivores they do VERY well on a diet of greens, veggies and fruits supplemented with a good insect diet.

[[Image:I_am_wonderful.jpg|thumb|left|Photo by [http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=74 netbunny]]]

Sudan's show in a variety of earth tone colors from yellow to dark browns. Their bodies are built low to the ground with short, stout legs that make you think these guys may be slow. They're anything but slow. These lizards can move fast! They have a stout tail and can use it as a club in defense. In extreme circumstances they can lose their tail and regenerate a new one. The ridges, or ''keel'', of the plated lizards have a raised angle on the dorsal (top) side while the scales elsewhere are quite smooth. They have an extra lateral fold of skin which allows for expansion so they can wedge themselves into their escape hole if being chased by predators.

Sudan plated lizards have long been in the pet trade with minimal popularity and exposure. They are gaining that as more people learn these are an easy animal to handle once they get over their shyness and their size makes them easily manageable.

The Sudan plated lizard is one of 7 species for which this wiki can be used, as well. The other 6 species are:
* ''[http://www.tigr.org/reptiles/species.php?genus=Gerrhosaurus&species=flavigularis G. flavigularis]''(Yellow-throated plated lizard)
* ''[http://www.tigr.org/reptiles/species.php?genus=Gerrhosaurus&species=validus G. validus]'' (Giant Plated Lizard)
* ''[http://www.tigr.org/reptiles/species.php?genus=Gerrhosaurus&species=nigrolineatus G. nigrolineatus]'' (Black-lined Plated lizard)
* ''[http://www.tigr.org/reptiles/species.php?genus=Gerrhosaurus&species=multilineatus G. multilineatus]'' (Keeled Plated lizard)
* ''[http://www.tigr.org/reptiles/species.php?genus=Gerrhosaurus&species=skoogi G. skoogi]'' (Desert Plated lizard)
* ''[http://www.tigr.org/reptiles/species.php?genus=Gerrhosaurus&species=typicus G. typicus]'' (Karoo Plated lizard)

== Difficulty ==
'''Advanced''' - but only because the level of specific care requirements needed in lighting and heating to keep your plated happy and healthy. These are a very easy lizard to handle.

== Basic Info ==
=== Size ===
They average at about 20". Some may become a little longer while some remain a bit smaller. Half it's length is the tail.

=== Lifespan ===
So far these lizards are living about 8-12 years.

=== Handling ===
Sudan plated lizards are somewhat shy lizards, but become accustomed to people rather quickly. There are not many breeding programs for any of the plated lizard species so many are WC specimens. Even newly captured plateds are not very prone to biting. They can bite and one should not be surprised if this happens. It's natural and to be expected. It just doesn't happen very often.

== Housing ==
===Housing Size===
Single plateds should be housed in no less than a 55 gal. (or 40 gal. breeder) tank as babies and young lizards. The temperature gradients cannot be achieved in anything less. Of course, bigger is better and you may quickly find you have run out of room in the 55 gal. I keep mine in a 75 gal. and even this has limited room with the extras. Though not an overly active lizard, it does appreciate the room offered by larger accommodations. A custom built cage would be ideal for a plated lizard.

Here are some simple dimensions:
* 12” to 14” animals are housed in 5’L x 2’D x 2’H
** 6’L x 2’D x 2’H or 4’L x 3’D x 2’H melamine cages for pairs & trios
* 14” to 24” animals are housed in 6’L x 3’D x 2'H
** 54"L x 36"D x 24"H or 72"L x 28"D x 24"H for pairs & select trios of 1.2

=== Substrate ===
Plated lizards love to dig. They're very good at it. A fertilizer-free potting soil lightened with clean sand and orchid bark shreds will work well. Newspaper is easier to clean and easy to feed on, but they are made for burrowing and will do quite well on the substrate mixture. My plated enjoys the children's playsand very much, but not only did it make the already heavy cage even heavier, it was hard to keep the sand out of the food with his digging. I have offered him instead a kitty litter pan filled with sand and his hide sits in it. I will soon be changing to a covered rubbermaid container so the sand stays in it better.

=== Temperature ===
Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 - $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots:

* Basking: 90-95
* Ambient: 80-85
* Cool end/night time: 70-75

Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps...all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in.

=== Humidity ===
Sudan plated lizards come from very arid regions. However, they should have a moist hide in which they can turn around in for aid in shedding. Females will often lay their eggs in this. This can be as easy a a rubbermaid container with a lid and a hole large enough for the lizard to get in and out of. Fill this with a sand/moss mixture. In the wild there are damp areas within the rocks and hides they seek out in the heat of the day.

=== Lighting ===
Basking lights are very easy and inexpensive if you stay away from the pet stores for this one. They need a photoperiod with daylight and nighttime as they would in their natural home. You can either follow the seasonal light changes going no less than 10 hours lights on to no more than 14 hours lights on. Instead of using the expensive "reptile basking lights", go to your local retail store and get a regular incandescent light bulb, such as what you would use for a lamp.

Plateds should NOT have night heat unless their nighttime temps go below the lowest temp requirements. Their bodies need to regulate to lower temps in order for them to "rest and recharge" for the next day.

Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. [[You need no less than two 36" fluorescent UVB tubes]] using a dual shop hood fixture. Short version - UVB helps the plated to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB...the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with:

Tubes:
* Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0
* Iguana Light 5.0
* Exoterra 8.0
* Arcadia 5.0 (UK)

Merc Vapors:
* Mega Ray EB (external ballast) [http://www.reptileuv.com ReptileUV]
* Mega Ray SB (self-ballast)
* T-Rex 100W or 160W Active UV Flood & Spot Lamps (available in many stores)

Many of these can be purchased at [http://www.reptiledirect.com Reptile Direct] for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your lizard...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Rays). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. A note on the compacts and spirals. These are no good for large lizards and reptiles. They do not cover nearly enough of the animal to benefit them. A UVB meter is an excellent way to keep on top of your bulbs.

Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB at the bottom.

== Feeding ==
=== Diet ===
Plated lizards are omnivores and will readily eat a wide variety of foods. Gutloaded insects can include, but are not limited to: crickets, mealworms, superworms, silkworms, waxworms, phoenix worms and cockroaches (lobster roach & hissers). Plant can contain, but not limited to: collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens (flowers and leaves), escarole, endive, radicchio, green beans, snap peas, yellow wax beans, parsnips, cactus leaves (remove spines), prickly pear, any of the summer squash, blueberry, blackberry, strawberry, mango, fig (rehydrated) any bright colored bell pepper. Human food: cooked lean burger (small amounts only!), boiled chicken, scrambled eggs (no seasonings, no oils). ''Lettuces of any kind should not be a part of the diet for their lack of nutrition.''

=== Supplements ===
The diet should have a calcium (no D3, no phosphorous) very lightly dusted on the salad 3-4x weekly. You should not be able to see the calcium once it's been added. A great way to add this is to use a salt shaker and gently shake once. If you have a limited variety of greens/veggies you should also add a good vitamin. Herptevite is a good choice to go with. A balanced diet should need no vitamin supplements. Calcium should always be used.

=== Hydration ===
Water should always be offered in a non-tipping dish changed daily. Mine will also take water from a syringe. I do this so I know he is getting some water intake.

== Advanced ==
=== Sexing ===
Sexing is very difficult in plateds unless you have another same-species lizard of the opposite sex to compare it to. They both have femoral pores which excrete a waxy substance. The males are more prominent than the females. There is only one 100% way to tell what you have. Even comparisons can be shaky depending upon the time of year and seasonal changes. Getting a DNA test using a spot of blood is the only sure-fire way if you are just dying to know. However...the only problem here is getting the blood. It means, at the very least, clipping a toenail toe short. Here is a website if you can bring yourself to do it complete with instructions and a printable blot page. [http://www.zoogen.biz/ Zoogen Incorporated] has been used for many years in bird sexing and have been very successful in sexing reptiles, too.

== References ==
=== Websites ===
'''General'''
* http://www.centralpets.com/animals/reptiles/lizards/lzd2701.html
* http://www.honoluluzoo.org/great_plated_lizard.htm
* http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/platedlizards/ (forum)

'''UVB'''
* http://www.reptileuvinfo.com
* http://www.uvguide.co.uk
* http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/

=== Books ===
* Plated Lizards of the Genus Gerrhosaurus: An Alternative to Iguanas - by David T. Kirkpatrick
* Grzimeks Animal Life Encyclopedia - by Bernhard Grzimek

== Author ==
This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=64 prism_wolf].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:prism_wolf prism_wolf].
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.

[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:prism_wolf]]

Corkbark Leaf-Tailed Gecko

2008-04-24T00:52:07Z

Prism wolf: /* Websites */

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' Squamata 
'''Family:''' Gekkonidae 
'''Genus:''' Uroplatus 
'''Species:''' pietschmanni

== Introduction ==
The corkbark leaf-tailed gecko also goes by spiny leaf tail gecko and its scientific name, Uroplatus pietschmanni. Most Uroplatus pietschmanni are wild caught and are a fairly hardy species to work with.

== Difficulty ==
Uroplatus pietschmanni are one of the easier Uroplatus geckos to care for. Cool temps and humidity are important, as it is with all Uroplatus. U. pietschmanni can tolerate a broad range than some other species.

== Basic Info ==
=== Size ===
Uroplatus pietschmanni grow to approx. 6 inches as adults. The females are slightly larger than the males

=== Lifespan ===
Please contribute to this section.

=== Handling ===
It is not advised to handle these geckos. They will tolerate some handling, but it should be avoided as to not stress the gecko.

== Housing ==
They like thick branches and corkbark to climb, also Sturdy broadleafed plants.

=== Substrate ===
Please contribute to this section.

=== Temperature ===
Temperatures in the high 60s to high 70s are satisfactory with a day/night fluctuation. My Pietschmanni have tolerated evening lows to 60 degrees and day highs to 85 degrees with no problems. These temps should not be drawn-out.

=== Humidity ===
Mainly, U. pietschmanni like a humid inclosure, but not damp or soggy. A humidity level between 60-70% should be consistent. The substrate should never be watery or muddy, this will lead to infection problems. The cage should be completely misted once in the evening. Let the inclosure dry during the day so that there is no standing water left.

I keep mine in a well ventilated cage (36H x 20 x 20) with screen on the top and on one side. The cage has several inches of soil in the bottom and is planted very well, so it holds humidity. I mist the cage thoroughly every evening.

=== Lighting ===
Please contribute to this section.

== Feeding ==
=== Diet ===
My U. Pietschmanni eat mostly crickets, and also get the occasional roaches. They are good eaters and wont refuse food.

=== Supplements ===
I lightly dust nearly every feeding with a calcium supplement, and I add a multivitamin supplement about once per week. Rep-Cal makes some good supplements.

=== Hydration ===
Please contribute to this section.

== Advanced ==
=== Sexing ===
Please contribute to this section.

=== Breeding ===
Please contribute to this section.

== Conclusion ==
In my experience, U. pietschmanni are a timid gecko, but they get used to their keeper.

== References ==
=== Websites ===
* [http://www.geocities.com/reptiluvr/upietschmannicaresheet.htm Uroplatus pietschmanni Caresheet]
* [http://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/ Geckos Unlimited Forum]

=== Books ===
Please contribute to this section.

== Author ==
This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=14 Katatonia].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Katatonia Katatonia].
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.

[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:Katatonia]]

Savannah Monitor

2008-04-08T19:27:07Z

Jfogle78: /* Housing */

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' Squamata 
'''Family:''' Varanidae 
'''Genus:''' Varanus 
'''Species:''' V. exanthematicus

== Introduction ==

== Difficulty ==
Not a beginner reptile.

== Basic Info ==
=== Size ===
Adults can reach lengths of 3 to 4 feet.

=== Lifespan ===
The average lifespan of a Savannah Monitor is around 10 years, but often less.

=== Handling ===
Savannahs require regular handling to remain social.

== Housing ==
Savannahs require a large enclosure as they reach adult size. It should be twice as long as the monitor, as deep as the monitor is long and at least 5ft tall. So you ar looking at a minimum of an 8ft X 4ft X 5ft enclosure. Make sure to add a large enough water bowl that they can soak in, many will deficate in their water, so make sure to check it frequently and change the water as soon as you notice its been turned to potty water.
=== Substrate ===
Savannah Monitor's enjoy digging, so offering a substrate to allow this is an excellent idea. Dirt or mulch are two choices, but some people will prefer newspaper or reptile carpet as it is easier to clean and maintain.

=== Temperature ===
Daytime temperature should be 85-90F, and the evening temperature can drop between 75-85F. The basking spot for a juvenile - adult should be 120F

=== Humidity ===
Should be around 45 and 60%.

=== Lighting ===
A heat light should be used to provide heat to the monitor during the day and evening if the temperatures in the room drop lower than 75F. UVB is not needed, but can be provided with a low rated UVB bulb.

== Feeding ==
=== Diet ===
Hatchlings should be fed a variety of feeders, such as mealworms, superworms, crickets, and pinkie/fuzzy mice. Do not feed anything larger than the half the length of the monitor's head. Offer food every 2-3 days.

Juveniles/Sub-Adults should be fuzzies/mice, depending on the size of the monitor. Feed 1 to 4 mice once to twice a week.

Adults are also fed once to twice a week with mice. Make sure to watch the weight of the adults, as obesity is common in Savannah Monitors

=== Supplements ===

=== Hydration ===

== Advanced ==
=== Sexing ===

=== Breeding ===

== Conclusion ==

== References ==
=== Websites ===

=== Books ===

== Author ==
This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=2 c1rc4].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:c1rc4 c1rc4].
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.

[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:c1rc4]]

Long Tailed Grass Lizard

2008-04-04T10:01:32Z

Palor: /* Breeding */

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' Squamata 
'''Family:''' Lacertidae 
'''Genus:''' Takydromus 
'''Species:''' Sexlineatus

== Introduction ==

[[Image:Long_Tailed_Grass_Lizard.jpg|thumb|left|Photo by [http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=217 Palor]]]

A wonderful and easy to care for lizard, they are active, agile and fun to watch. They are active predators hunting insects and other small invertebrates. They are a social lizard and do well in small groups of 3-6 or with other small lizards and some amphibians. They are native to southeast asia. Some pet stores list them as Long Tailed Grass Skink, this is wrong as they are not skinks and more closely related to lacertaes.

== Difficulty ==
Easy, provide a good sized home in the 15g+ range with plenty of things to climb and several basking spots.

== Basic Info ==
Its diurnal lizard with semi-prehensile tail it uses to balance and climb with.

=== Size ===
Adults can be 10-12" in length. About 3-4" in body the remainder a very long tail.

=== Lifespan ===
Life span is 5+ years.

=== Handling ===
Those not used to handling will be skittish and jumpy. To acclimate your new grass lizard to being handled start by getting it used to your hands. Simply let its curious nature do your work for you, place your hands near the lizard till its used to them. It will use it tongue much like a snake does to taste you. After it stop running from your hands, try to pick it up by getting it to crawl onto your hand. Be careful not startle it or grab its delicate tail. After awhile they become rather friendly and will easily be picked up. Be aware of the tail, it will try to secure the lizard and caution needs to be taken not to accidentally break off the tail.

== Housing ==
At least a 15g for one lizard and another 5g+ for each additional lizard. They are active foragers and climb very well. A sealed screen top they can't escape from the tank is a must. Many hiding spaces should be offered. They will pick a favorite spot to sleep and wrap their long tail around the body in coils.

=== Substrate ===
Coco-fiber, peat moss and bark chips work well and keep humidity in. Some individuals may burrow.

=== Temperature ===
Basking spot of 90-95°, general tank temperature of 80° and night temperature can be in the 70's. If you live in a colder climate an under tank heater may be needed. A thermometer should be present at the the basking spot and on the bottom of the tank.

=== Humidity ===
Try to maintain Humidity of around 70%, daily misting and a large shallow water bowl can help maintain proper humidity.

=== Lighting ===
A full spectrum UVA/UVB light is needed, lights should be on 10-12 hours a day.

== Feeding ==
3-4 live prey items 5x a week, juveniles need to be fed daily.

=== Diet ===
Small insects such 5 week old crickets, meal worms, butterworms, phoenix worms should be fed. Prey should be gutloaded.

=== Supplements ===
A calcium supplement should be dusted onto food 3x a week.

=== Hydration ===
A shallow water dish should be present and be changed with fresh water daily.

== Advanced ==
Many are Wild Caught and likely have parasites and should be tested for them. Some males may fight each other and caution should be taken when setting up a colony.

=== Sexing ===
Males can easily be recognized by a large swelling at the base of the tail.

=== Breeding ===
Long Tailed Grass Lizards usually lay two to three eggs. Often they will be laid in a damp warm place, under the water bowl, in the base of a clump of grass or other spots the lizards may pick. Eggs should hatch in 6 weeks.

== Conclusion ==
An elegant a rewarding reptile I heartily recommend to the experienced and beginner reptile keeper.

== References ==

=== Websites ===
* http://www.centralpets.com/animals/reptiles/lizards/lzd5967.html
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takydromus_sexlineatus
* http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/lizards/long-tail-lizard.php

=== Books ===

== Author ==
Palor: My first try at a wiki.

This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=217 Palor].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Palor Palor].
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[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:Palor]]

Template

2008-04-03T13:12:03Z

Rwagoner: New page: == Taxonomy == '''Order:''' '''Family:''' '''Genus:''' '''Species:''' == Introduction == == Difficulty == == Basic Info == === Size === === Lifespan === === Ha...

== Taxonomy ==
'''Order:''' 
'''Family:''' 
'''Genus:''' 
'''Species:'''

== Introduction ==

== Difficulty ==

== Basic Info ==
=== Size ===

=== Lifespan ===

=== Handling ===

== Housing ==
=== Substrate ===

=== Temperature ===

=== Humidity ===

=== Lighting ===

== Feeding ==
=== Diet ===

=== Supplements ===

=== Hydration ===

== Advanced ==
=== Sexing ===

=== Breeding ===

== Conclusion ==

== References ==
=== Websites ===

=== Books ===

== Author ==
This article was originally written by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1 rwagoner].
View other articles by
[http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:rwagoner rwagoner].
Please note that others may have contributed to this article.

[[Category:Care Guides]]
[[Category:rwagoner]]